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Avanti Door Adjusting
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Avanti door adjustments Mar 2018 - (Brad Bez Bullets) (start - 2017 - )
//////Door adjustment: My '63 has a door that is not original to the car, and it stands proud of the body front and rear about 1/8", but otherwise fits OK. The rear can be adjusted with the latch I know, but there are no shims behind the hinges, so how do you bring it in to be flush?////
Open the door wide.....look into the hinge pockets. See the bolts holding them to the body?. See how close the pivot of the hinge is closest to the inboard bolts? Good, then you now know where any adjustment will do the most good. Early hinge were not slotted bolt holes, but later on in manufacture, Avanti motors saw the benefit of slotting the holes. Moving the outer two bolts on the hinges that are on the jamb themselves does little to nothing in adjusting the doors. It is the INNER where the pivot of the hinge is where it does the most movement. The adjustments at the door itself, only adjusts the fore and aft, and up and down. It will not have any affect on the in/out of the door fitment.
There are lots of adjustments for the window frame. There are four bolts alone on the heavy cast chrome vent window frame. Most people don't remember the smaller 7/16" bolt between the two larger 9/16 bolts along the top of the inside door. Then the tilt in and out adjusted by the next lower bolt (nut actually) located just above the upper hinge bolts. Loosen all the four then adjust the gap to the "A" pillar and get it even and parallel. Then tighten the rear bolt. Then adjust the screwdriver slot of the bolt that has the nut on it. unscrew the slot to get the vent frame to tilt inwards at the top, or screw it in to get the top to move away from the roof. Keep pressure on the vent frame by holding it where it needs to be, and tighten the remaining nuts, and bolts. Check fit, and redo as necessary. then moving back along the door, the window regulator has a small short 8" track that runs parallel to the ground. The adjustment screws have slotted holes moving the two 3/8 bolts up will tilt the main window up in the back, as it tilts the whole window. Roll it up and down after adjusting to check it isn't binding in the front, or rear track. You may have to adjust the lower front track, or the upper rear rack bolt to get it free from binding full travel. Moving the upper bolt of the rear track will move the door glass rearwards and it may be too close to the stainless "B" pillar when opening, especially at the very top. Of course all of these adjustments are made AFTER the door and striker adjustments are made. You make the door fit the opening first, then adjust the vent windows, and glass to fit.
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// Forums: SDC ////My passenger's window was painfully slow when I got my car, struggling to make the last inch up. //////70970
Try adding an 1/8" shim behind the upper rear mounting bolt for the rear channel/track.
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//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// If someone in the past glued the rubber outer sweep into the stainless retainer, then yes, it would be easier if you remove the stainless retainer also. You however do not have to completely remove the glass. Take off the door panel and remove the lower glass stop. Remove the clips holding the nylon rollers to the glass channel, and slide the regulator pins from the lower glass channel. Then the glass can drop to the bottom of the door, and you can the have room to pry out the clips and the stainless. You do have to remove a few inches of the rubber towards the back of the channel because there is a screw hiding under the rubber that holds the stainless trim to the fiberglass door.
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// They are hex bolts. There should be large hexagonal shaped lock washers that spread out the load. You can use a flat washer, and a star lock washer. The only slotted holes should be the rear window track, and the short horizontol track. Those are used to adjust the tilt of the glass. Top adjusts the window back up, and down tilts it down. You may have to shim the top of the long rear track between the tab and the inside of the door to center the glass away from the rubber outer sweep when the glass is all the way up. Make sure there is a screw in the outer sweep rubber retainer stainless, or the stainless window frame may grab it as you try to put the window down. No speed nuts needed, unless the swedged in nuts re missing on th regulator. Make sure the three bolts into the enter pivot are the correct ones, as the thread is finer. They must be very, very short so they don't protrude past the bracket, and hit the regulator arms that pass very close. You won't need Locktite.
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// NuRelics, makes an Avanti power regulator, that is NOT listed in their catalog. They are not like the stock regulators. I have installed a couple of sets for customers. Not a simple bolt in job, as some inner door fiberglass needs to be trimmed. Also they have no helper springs, so they are still s-l-o-w. I have used later 80's Avanti regulators, and used better springs, and have been happy with the results. The advantage over earlier regulators, is a simple two wire motor, that is available anywhere for less than 60 bucks., plus they have more torque. I also modify the regulators to use a second helper spring added to where they are located on manual regulators, as well as the one located near the main gear pivot, on the electric ones. Also, The doors usually need to be reinforced, or repaired where the center sissor pivot is located, as the door is often broken there due to stress from the regulator.
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// nurelichawk.jpg This is a pic of the K body regulators. I have the Avanti ones in my shop, and also have installed them. This is not them. Yes, this is from Nu Relics. They don't list the Avanti, but rest assured the DO have them. You need the FORD window switches to look close to the original Avanti switches. An additional 180 over the basic $435 regulator price. Price is for the pair, two wire motor. You must state for Avanti when ordering as the listing for Studebaker only states for 53-64, which will get you the Hawk type by default. A word of caution.... the only mounting point for the regulator for Avantis is the three bolt center pivot ara that is the weakest part of the door. It is usually broken or cracked to begin with. The inner structure of the door has to be trimmed to clear the motor, and it (the motor) hangs too freely, and has no support. I always have to add a spacer, and a long support bolt , which is not mentioned anywhere in the limited instructions. The new regulators have no helper springs, and the action is quite slow after all is said and done. IMHO the best solution is to use the original regulators, with a second helper spring located where manual regulators have them. Replace the original Bosch motors with new complete motors and gears from an 89 Jeep Commanche. Get the new switches, and two wire harness from Ne Relics, and you will be golden. I have done this, and it works. No Chicom repop motors for 300 bucks anymore. No 5 wire crap to snake through the door openings. |