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Lark Parker
Cruiser Member
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USA
235 Posts |
Posted - 12/08/2007 : 7:55:34 PM
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The content here is just a reformatting of the previously posted "Speedster Cap repair" thread and uses Photobucket so that the text is easier to get to.
![](https://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n4/larkparker/Speedster%20cap%20skin/b2.jpg) An original style Studebaker accessory cap, standard on 1955 Speedsters, optional for a few other years. This style of construction, and repair, is also used on some prewar hubcaps. Dents have been marked with a Sharpy marker.
![](https://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n4/larkparker/Speedster%20cap%20skin/b1.jpg) Back side of the cap, the reproduction caps do not have the steel frame inside. This frame needs to be removed to reach and fix the dents.
![](https://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n4/larkparker/Speedster%20cap%20skin/b32.jpg) This tool is made from half a small pair of end cutters and ground to the desired shape by a Dremel.
![](https://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n4/larkparker/Speedster%20cap%20skin/b36.jpg) Skin bending. Pry it up to a horizontal position all the way around. It will be opened more later with another tool.
![](https://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n4/larkparker/Speedster%20cap%20skin/b37.jpg) Another bending tool, made from a pair of pliers. Note the overlapping tip has very tight "rubbing" clearance. Keep the bent tip thin for reaching under tight edges.
![](https://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n4/larkparker/Speedster%20cap%20skin/b38.jpg) Positioning the tool. Special tools like this aren't necessary if standard tools can reach in past obstacles.
![](https://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n4/larkparker/Speedster%20cap%20skin/b39.jpg) Tool closed on the stainless lip.
![](https://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n4/larkparker/Speedster%20cap%20skin/b3993.jpg) Bend cap edge to a vertical position to release the frame.
![](https://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n4/larkparker/Speedster%20cap%20skin/b394.jpg) We bad!
![](https://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n4/larkparker/Speedster%20cap%20skin/b395.jpg) Skin and frame separated. Note that the lip doesn't have to be completely vertical all the way around for removal. About half to two-thirds will do it.
![](https://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n4/larkparker/Speedster%20cap%20skin/b397.jpg) Back of the cap skin is dirty.
![](https://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n4/larkparker/Speedster%20cap%20skin/b399.jpg) #2 steel wool. Cleaning this to be able to see the dents. On some trim with overspray or road tar this can be assisted with lacquer thinner.
![](https://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n4/larkparker/Speedster%20cap%20skin/b3991.jpg) Hey, I found one!
![](https://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n4/larkparker/Speedster%20cap%20skin/b3992.jpg) And a dozen more dents found. We are ready for the straightening, polishing and buffing.
Lark Parker If at first you don't succeed -- you will get a lot of advice.
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mbstude
Commander Member
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USA
3237 Posts |
Posted - 12/08/2007 : 8:09:39 PM
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VERY NICE!!! ![](icon_smile_cool.gif)
Now, I want to see the straightening, polishing, and buffing procedures. ![](icon_smile_wink.gif) ![](icon_smile_big.gif)
Matthew Burnette '59 Scotsman '63 Daytona Hazlehurst, GA
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Karl
Regal Member
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USA
340 Posts |
Posted - 12/08/2007 : 8:51:58 PM
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You have my undivided attendion.![](icon_smile_big.gif) |
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jbwhttail
Cruiser Member
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USA
159 Posts |
Posted - 12/09/2007 : 2:50:58 PM
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Heck of a job Dale!!!!
easy to use aint it![](icon_smile_wink.gif)
It is an addiction! |
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55Prez
Regal Member
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362 Posts |
Posted - 12/18/2007 : 2:34:36 PM
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Here's Number #1.... Excellent work!
Bob Johnstone
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