/////64 Daytona w/Avanti discs and P/B. Converting to dual braking system//// Use a 1 1/8 bore MC from 1967-1968 Dodge Monaco or Polara. EIS p/n E64874, or Raybestos MC36259. If car is equipped with windshield washer bottle, you'll have to relocate it, as the new master cyl is too long and takes up some of that space. Also, the push rod coming out of the booster must have a length adjustment. You must adjust it to .9 inches, precisely. SuperHawk -------- Putting the master cylinder in is the easy part. Replumbing the brake lines at the front brass block will drive you nuts! The steering box is right in front of the brass block so the new line has to be bent into a tight curve right behind the nut on the line. I finally had to undo the bolt holding the brass block to the frame in order to get the new one threaded. I put a 360 degree loop in each line just under the new M/C to take up the extra line length and let me move the M/C off the booster, if I ever need to do that, without undoing the lines. A tip: buy three extra plugs for the master cylinder, one pipe plug for the brake light switch hole and two flared plugs for the line outlets. Then, fill the master cylinder on the workbench and "bench bleed" it before putting it in the car. The M/C will drip a bit when you pull the plugs and put the lines and switch in, but you'll have a lot less air to get rid off. I used a hand-held vacuum pump to bleed the lines. I nibbled a 0.900 inch "mouse hole" gauge from a sheet of thin aluminum to set the rod. Gary Ash From SDC Forum #29757 - June 2009