Thought I would document the process I am going through to convert a 1958 Provincial station wagon with 259 and 3spOD over to a T5 world class transmission.
I read everything I could find on this forum on the subject and searched the net as well.
We bought a rebuilt mustang T5 world class transmission for 1050.00 including shipping. After getting it in and doing measurements of shifter location on the trans and where it would be in the car, decided it would be too close to bench seat and cause interference. Searched for ways to change the shifter location on the hot rod forums. Several ways to do it but the most appealing to me was to have an S10 world class tail housing installed on the mustang T5, that changed the shifter location forward around 8". The person we bought the original transmission from, Earl Johnson hjhnracing@msn.com , out of Texas, was great to work with. We did a swap as he had one already made up in that configuration. It also allowed me to keep the mechanical speedometer cable drive. The S10 housing has to be reworked in order to keep the mechanical speedo drive.
The S10 rear with mods added to the T5 raised the cost 300.00.
(this gives a 10 spline input shaft and a 27 spline output shaft)
The gear ratios are 3.35,1.99,1.34,1.00 and 0.68. 86-93 Mustang
***Also, here is a note from Earl to me concerning using the Tremec version-
The Tremec 3550/TKO series are bulkier, heavier and do not have the shifting characteristics of the T5. If a heavy duty T5 is needed for higher output engines, I can build them up stronger at additional cost.
We had two ears welded on the Stude bell housing so the trans mounting pattern would line up.
Drilled and tapped the ears to 7/16x16 thread size.
Next-- issue was the throw-out bearing retainer flange that the bell housing hole goes over. The steel retainer had to be turned down several thousands in order to set in the hole with no interference.
Next-- bearing retainer shaft diameter is slightly smaller than the ID of the throw-out bearing as it rides on the retainer. A shim was made so the proper clearance could be maintained as the bearing slides back and forth on the retainer shaft as the clutch is pushed in and out.
Next -- A brass pilot bearing that fit the T5 shaft OD and the flywheel hole id was made up during the bell housing trip to the machine shop for the ears being added.
When mounting the bell-housing to the transmission, for some reason I had a hard time starting the bolts into position and tightening up. I changed up and installed 7/16 studs into the bell-housing and loc-tighted in place. Slipped right on and tightened up fine.
Right now I am welding in new floor pans and will add more on the conversion as we do it.
**** note post from Alan --
On the pilot bearing adapter use a trans-dapt of California 801-1. For the Ford tranny. for a GM type you have to make your own.
*** note post from Joe Hall---
Regardless of which style clutch, HD or standard, ALWAYS run a weld bead around the t/o bearing forks, which are serrated onto the cross-shaft. When the forks shift on the serrated shaft, you lose the clutch pedal, and the only fix is to pull the transmission. Welding those forks in place is a simple preventive measure, and I would not install any transmission without doing that first.
**** Note from Stude Rich post- (truck bellhousing)
It's the housing for a '56-'64 V-8 Truck with a T-89 (T-85 type) 3 speed Manual or Overdrive Trans. (in the Studebaker Truck Parts Catalog.)
It requires TWO Truck cast iron engine mount "legs", four round rubber/steel mounts, two spacer sleeves, two large LONG bolts, flat washers and Nuts. [u]and a Truck</u> to PROPERLY mount it.
*** Company that does the cable speedo conversion
http://t56cablespeedometer.com/t5-ca...ve-conversion/
I read everything I could find on this forum on the subject and searched the net as well.
We bought a rebuilt mustang T5 world class transmission for 1050.00 including shipping. After getting it in and doing measurements of shifter location on the trans and where it would be in the car, decided it would be too close to bench seat and cause interference. Searched for ways to change the shifter location on the hot rod forums. Several ways to do it but the most appealing to me was to have an S10 world class tail housing installed on the mustang T5, that changed the shifter location forward around 8". The person we bought the original transmission from, Earl Johnson hjhnracing@msn.com , out of Texas, was great to work with. We did a swap as he had one already made up in that configuration. It also allowed me to keep the mechanical speedometer cable drive. The S10 housing has to be reworked in order to keep the mechanical speedo drive.
The S10 rear with mods added to the T5 raised the cost 300.00.
(this gives a 10 spline input shaft and a 27 spline output shaft)
The gear ratios are 3.35,1.99,1.34,1.00 and 0.68. 86-93 Mustang
***Also, here is a note from Earl to me concerning using the Tremec version-
The Tremec 3550/TKO series are bulkier, heavier and do not have the shifting characteristics of the T5. If a heavy duty T5 is needed for higher output engines, I can build them up stronger at additional cost.
We had two ears welded on the Stude bell housing so the trans mounting pattern would line up.
Drilled and tapped the ears to 7/16x16 thread size.
Next-- issue was the throw-out bearing retainer flange that the bell housing hole goes over. The steel retainer had to be turned down several thousands in order to set in the hole with no interference.
Next-- bearing retainer shaft diameter is slightly smaller than the ID of the throw-out bearing as it rides on the retainer. A shim was made so the proper clearance could be maintained as the bearing slides back and forth on the retainer shaft as the clutch is pushed in and out.
Next -- A brass pilot bearing that fit the T5 shaft OD and the flywheel hole id was made up during the bell housing trip to the machine shop for the ears being added.
When mounting the bell-housing to the transmission, for some reason I had a hard time starting the bolts into position and tightening up. I changed up and installed 7/16 studs into the bell-housing and loc-tighted in place. Slipped right on and tightened up fine.
Right now I am welding in new floor pans and will add more on the conversion as we do it.
**** note post from Alan --
On the pilot bearing adapter use a trans-dapt of California 801-1. For the Ford tranny. for a GM type you have to make your own.
*** note post from Joe Hall---
Regardless of which style clutch, HD or standard, ALWAYS run a weld bead around the t/o bearing forks, which are serrated onto the cross-shaft. When the forks shift on the serrated shaft, you lose the clutch pedal, and the only fix is to pull the transmission. Welding those forks in place is a simple preventive measure, and I would not install any transmission without doing that first.
**** Note from Stude Rich post- (truck bellhousing)
It's the housing for a '56-'64 V-8 Truck with a T-89 (T-85 type) 3 speed Manual or Overdrive Trans. (in the Studebaker Truck Parts Catalog.)
It requires TWO Truck cast iron engine mount "legs", four round rubber/steel mounts, two spacer sleeves, two large LONG bolts, flat washers and Nuts. [u]and a Truck</u> to PROPERLY mount it.
*** Company that does the cable speedo conversion
http://t56cablespeedometer.com/t5-ca...ve-conversion/
Have the T5 installed and now must figure out the clutch linkage to bell housing.
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