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bill van alstyne
Starlight Member
USA
71 Posts |
Posted - 05/10/2010 : 8:13:05 PM
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Anyone have experience stopping water leaks on the windshield and back
glass? The car is completely restored, and has a new windshield along
with new gaskets. They were installed by pro glass installers, and they
want to get it fixed, but would like to know if anyone has had this
problem and solution. I know these cars are susceptible to leaks, but
if anyone knows of "the" fix, I'd appreciate the info. Thanks, B.V. |
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Milaca
Commander Member
USA
2644 Posts |
Posted - 05/10/2010 : 8:37:32 PM
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Hi Bill, it was nice meeting you and your wife and your brother too.
Prager had his beautifully restored 1962 Lark at the show and
experienced some water seepage also. Somebody recently mentioned on a
prior posting that sealant should be applied to the outside AND the
inside of the rubber gasket to prevent leakage. Perhaps the exterior
side of the gasket can be spread open enough to inject urethane
sealant? If I find that previous posting, I will copy it here.
Here's a link to that prior post. https://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=41468
"South Bend or Burst!" In the middle of Minnestudea |
Edited by - Milaca on 05/10/2010 11:02:19 PM |
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wcarroll@outrageous.net
Golden Hawk Member
USA
609 Posts |
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WCP
Regal Member
Canada
408 Posts |
Posted - 05/11/2010 : 1:04:45 PM
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You have to determine where the leaking is occurring - between the
glass and rubber, or between the rubber and body fence. If it between
glass and rubber, a pump gun with a needle applicator can be used to
liberally apply a liquid rubber sealant (definitely not urethane!) all
the way around the glass/rubber interface. The sealant should ooze out
onto the glass surface where it can be removed from the glass after it
sets up. I use a sharpened popsicle stick to trace or "cut" around the
edge of the rubber before the sealant sets up, so the solidified
sealant can be peeled off the glass later. The glass can later be
cleaned up with mineral spirits (varsol). If the leaks are between the
rubber and body fence, then you may have a problem, as it is difficult
to access the leak areas behind the stainless trim cover. The area
across the top of the front window can't be fixed without removing the
window. The side areas requires the side SS trim be removed. Then the
needle can be inserted between body and rubber to push in sealant from
top to bottom. The bottom corners should be flooded with sealant. It is
possible to similarly push sealant between body and rubber along the
bottom with the pump gun but care will have to be taken to not damage
the paint or distort the SS trim. Pay particular attention to the
bottom corners of the "hood hump". The back window presents the same
difficulties in sealing. I use a couple of sharpened popsickle sticks
to slip between the body and rubber where possible and then insert the
pump needle between them to flood a short section with sealant and
gradually move along the body fence section a step at a time. You want
to see the sealant ooze out. Avantis can leak at the front where the
metal A-pillar meets the fibreglass body at the bottom of the window.
This seam may be exposed or may be hidden beneath the side SS trim.
Sealant needs to be placed along the interface from the sealant at the
window corner back to the door weatherstripping. This area is very
difficult to seal from the inside without cutting the body. |
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bill van alstyne
Starlight Member
USA
71 Posts |
Posted - 05/11/2010 : 7:25:56 PM
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Thanks for the info fellas! The guys who installed the windows really
sealed it thoroughly, and are surprised it has leaks. That's why we are
looking for possible weaknesses and solutions. I'll get this info to
them and see if the leaks can be stopped. Brent, it was nice meeting
you also. Hope you had a good trip home, without much rain. Thanks
again, B.V. |
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wcarroll@outrageous.net
Golden Hawk Member
USA
609 Posts |
Posted - 05/11/2010 : 8:06:08 PM
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Not installing Strip Caulk is asking for trouble in my opinion.
Strip
caulk is almost like a clay that is used to build up the surfaces of
the lip or trough where the windshield sits -not very common in todays
glass installation practice because the tolerances on modern cars is
very good. It's also commonly used on Corvettes. Since the bodies were
hand laid, there are many inconsistencies -especially in the early
bodies as we've all read. If your windshield guy is used to doing new
cars and did not follow the procedure in the manual, there's a very
good chance they overlooked this important step.
Best of luck with the fix. At least we know the water that leaked in won't cause any serious rust
https://community.webshots.com/user/s2dbaker?vhost=community |
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52 Ragtop
Golden Hawk Member
USA
753 Posts |
Posted - 05/11/2010 : 10:05:41 PM
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When I was repainting my 63 Avanti, I discovered that in both lower
corners of the windshield, the original caulking had dried out. That
said, it left about a 3/16" gap between the post and the cowl. I used a
2 part seam sealer and I "hope" any water leaks will be resolved! You need to remember, it's a Studebaker, and it will leak oil or water, or both! <G>
Jim |
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bill van alstyne
Starlight Member
USA
71 Posts |
Posted - 05/12/2010 : 4:06:52 PM
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Thanks once again guys! I've always referred to strip caulk as dum-dum,
but I believe these installers didn't use any. They did use a caulk
type sealer, and also a very heavy additional sealer that could pass as
"loose" dum-dum. The leaks actually seem to be on the top of the
windows, but we will have to do some more water testing to definitively
locate the spots. Yes all the fun involved with Studes! B.V. |
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52 Ragtop
Golden Hawk Member
USA
753 Posts |
Posted - 05/12/2010 : 9:57:20 PM
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To properly test for water leaks, start at the bottom and work up. Have someone inside while running water from the bottom up.
Jim |
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Deaf Mute
Cruiser Member
USA
198 Posts |
Posted - 05/12/2010 : 10:00:32 PM
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Here is what I used on the Avanti with GREAT results: PERMATEX FLOWABLE SILICON windshield glass sealer 81730-65AR
I made a wedge of sorts out of oak. It has a healthy handle on it and
one end angled and sharpened in a V shape. I slid the sharp end between
the glass and gasket and followed behind the wide end with the tube of
sealer and injected it all around the window. NO MORE LEAKS! Now if I could seal the top of the door glass somehow, I'd be happy!
duane miller |
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