I have not had much time for Studes this year but I am almost complete with building the boxes on my 64 convertable. I am using 1/8 inch 2 inch angle iron. I did not strengthen the body when I removed the hogs. I knew one side of the old boxes had some rot but when I removed the undercoating I found the inside side of both of them was gone also. I do not understand this as after I removed them i had shiney floor board metal underneath them. I had to adjust the drivers door a little but did not have to adjust the passenger door. The drivers side of this car is actually the worst side as far as rust goes, which is really strange. These floor boards are really solid with only a couple small patches( installed before this effort) so I figured removing the rotted out hogs would not hurt as they were not really doing that much anyway. When I removed the original boxes I think I could have filled a trash can with all the hunks of rust that came out. These things looked much better on the outside than they were on the inside. I built the boxes by using the angle iron to form a u channel on the inside and outside of each box. I used this method as it allowed me to manever around the frame supports. I could not have gotten a u channel in there with the length I used. The outer rails are close to 6 foot in length which gave me the strength I wanted as they run from the front floor boards to just in front of the rear wheel well. This is my first convertable and it seems that the area under the rear window was not supported as well as it could have been originally as that water running down into there from the rear window had a poor design for removal or draining.. I placed a galv plate across the bottom of the two u channels ( two pieces of angle used to make a u) I really think the 8 pieces of angle I used are better than the original hogs but they do not look as nice I guess. I attached the bottom plates with screws and caulking so i can get in there again if i ever need to. I ran 1/4 flat steel from each of the frame mounts across the two u channels. This method seemed to really work for me, the 1/4 flat steel supports the outer u channel and still allows me screw the plate on the bottom. The galv I used was pretty heavy and I put two ridges in it to add strength. I do think that the door I had to adjust was due to the fact that I "repaired" a saggy floor and someone previous had adjusted that door to allow for the sagging floor.