Converting to transistor Voltage Regulator- ----------- Several weeks ago there was a good deal of discussion about Voltage Regulators and either converting to or buying a solid state conversion from vendors. In my book I give detailed instructions on how to do this, but unfortunately just a few months after I published the book, the module I recommended (Transpo #590) became unavailable. Just this week, my rebuilder told me he had found a replacement. Now you can refurbish you old unit and convert to solid state for under $45 including shipping and a new decal. Here is the information you need to purchase this module, copied from my website: CONVERTING TO A SOLID STATE VOLTAGE REGULATOR, pp.30 and 87. On these two pages I give complete instructions for converting your original voltage regulator with the coils, point, etc. to a modern solid state VR without changing the external appearance. The trouble with what I said there was that the small module that went inside the original can, a Transpo 590, was no longer available about 8 months after I published the book. So that was not much help. Now I have discovered a module that is small enough to fit inside the original can, has the same specs and applications, and hooks up just like the Transpo unit with the same color wires. It is even adjustable like the Transpo module. Here is the information: WAI (that is the name of the company that makes it) # 35-113. This unit is only available from auto electric rebuilders, not at normal retailers. If you do not have a rebuilder close to you, the one I use here in Grand Rapids, MI can help you: Floyd's Electric Service, Inc., ph. (616)534-8691. When I bought one last week it came to $32.33 with tax. Floyd's Electric does stock this item, they do accept phone orders with a Visa or MC credit card, and they ship UPS. I have already hooked mine up, and it works just fine. I did not really need a new unit, but I wanted to make sure it worked fine before making this information available. Stan Gundry, Author/Publisher What The Shop Manual Won't Tell You: Studebaker Avanti Restoration and Maintenance. For information about this book, go to: www.AvantiPublishing.com If you have questions, write me at: sgundry@aol.com ================================================================= The regulator has 3 units inside it. Essentially they are relays; an electromagnet that attracts a small flap bearing contact points. One unit is the "cutout". Its sole purpose in life is to disconnect the generator from the battery when the engine is shut off. In modern alternator systems, the internal diodes in the alternator perform this function. Generators need a cutout, Early generators used ONLY a cutout, and charging rate was adjusted by moving a third brush on the commutator. The second unit is a voltage regulator, and is wound with many turns of very fine wire. Should the system voltage go too high, this electromagnet wiil have enough pull to move its "flap" (actually an armature), and divert some field current to ground. The third unit is a current regulator. It is wound with relatively few turns of heavy wire, and its function is to kill or reduce field current if the output current is too high. Faced with your problem, what I would try is to "adjust" the current regulator. First, identify the current regulator unit. The voltage regulator unit is readily identified because it has many turns of fine wire. The cutout and current regulator look very similar. Run the engine at idle with the cover off the regulator, ensuring that it idles fast enough to show a LITTLE charge on the ammeter. The armature on the cutout will be pulled down, and if you lift it, the ammeter should go to zero or slight discharge. The armature on the curent regulator should be up. That's how you distinguish between the two. OK, it's charging too strongly, and you've identified the current regulator unit. What to do? Well, in order for the current regulator to function, the magnetic pull of its coil has to exceed the tension of the spring that holds the armature up. So if you lessen the tension of that spring, the coil should pull in the armature at a lower current threshhold. Find the lower, or fixed, anchor for it little coil spring, and bend it up a tiny amount. The exact measurement can't be described in polite company, but you'll get the idea. Just tweak it a bit. Best not to do it with the engine on, because you could create a short with whatever tool seems right for bending the spring anchor. I recommend a screwdriver. Worst case scenario, you f*ck up the regulator, and have to buy a new one; but you were going to have to do that anyway. Good luck, Gord Richmond May 2004 ====================================