I have the GM altenator mounted and wired up on the Avanti.  The project was
really VERY easy.  So any of you reading this post and having a simular problem
might be interested.  To mount the Altenator all that was needed to be done was
move the small three hole mounted bracket forward one bolt hole .. and drill
two new holes into the main bracket.  In other words the front hole in the main
bracket became the rear hole for the small bracket.  Then mark your holes in
pencil use the top existing holes to line up the new hole and drill it.  Then I
installed a bolt and then drilled the lower hole.  The case of the altenator is
very close to the lower water manifold bolt. If your belt is long enough, it
will clear it, mine did (barely).  If not, then a 1/2 thick piece of aluminum
with those same 3 holes drilled in it, placed between the small bracket and the
main bracket will space the altenator out far enough to clear.  Then you need a
3 inch long 3/8 bolt a couple washers and a nut.  You place the wide end of the
GM altenator in the top bracket, you just moved forward, and then just use the
existing adjusting arm again for the lower mount (like it was originally)  The
only difference is now you put the bolt in from the back side of the adjusting
arm instead of the front side .. since the altenator got moved forward.  GM
altenators are designed so that the rear of the altenator can be rotated to
place the wires at 12, 3, 6 or 9 oclock.  Just remove the 4 screws take off the
rear cover .. use a drill bit to hold the brushes away from the contact surface
and put the cover back on so the wires face the correct way, if needed.  I was
surprised how easy this was to do, sounds like a lot, but its not really. It
looks like it was supposed to have a GM altenator.


NOTE:  ON 21 March, 2007, the Honda alternator swap, outlined below, was 
reported, not to work as outlined.  However after some investigation, it was found the the alternator was assembled incorrectly by the rebuilder. 
Honda Alternator-
   If anyone needs an alternator for your 63 to 64 Lark and Hawk, its the same
as Honda CVCC.  Its about 30 bucks.  It actually fits BETTER then stock, since
it has a sliding sleeve in the rear mount to keep from pinching the altenator
and breaking the casing (anyone had this happen yet??)  I can dig up the number
if anyone needs it .... it also looks simular to original.

The Honda one I mentioned is a direct bolt on with no needed modifications to
car or altenator.  The wiring is easy also.

(Stude alternator wiring:
(1)white 14 gauge - alternator ground to VR ground
(2)Yellow 12 gauge with black trailer = Alternator field to VR Field
(3)Red 10 gauge - Alternator BAT to  main buss)

Honda wiring to Stude Harness
Ground wire (1) to altenator chassis (there are a few bolts on back)
Power (3) lead to power terminal on Alt
Field (2) slip on connector to "F" terminal

There are two other terminals not used on a Studebaker.  The Honda altenator
used a dual amp VR.  So it had a high side and a low side.  We are only
interested in the high side or 35 amp.  Which is the "F" terminal.

Carquest part number RE 14184

OEM# 021000-5410   31100-657-024

76-79 Honda CVCC or Civic

35 amp

Price in 93 was 38.31  My brother bought one for his Lark about a year or two
ago.

Tom