V-8 rear ends were the (Dana)44 Studebaker also made No. 23, 27 and 45 axles (smaller diameter axles and "U"bolt's). The Stude 44 axles have a 2 1/2" diameter axle housing. They are hypoid, semi-floating axles (by Spicer/Dana) in the Avanti and RQA models of Avanti II. If you find a tag on the cover plate with 45B, this will tell you it is a limited slip (Twin Traction) rear end (not a 45 axle). Early Twin Traction Axles used a axle cover tag with a large T on them (they had a 30 degree ramp angle). Tags also were on the axle cover plate, with the rear end ratio listed. Axle model #'s are cast on the housing, just around the corner from the filler plug. Spray some engine gunk on the axle and take it to a self service pressure car wash to clean it up. It's easy to pull the cover off and replace the cover gasket and fluid. Chances are the fluid has only been topped off for years and dirty fluid beyond the plug could use a drain & fill. If the rear cover is caked with grease, there has been leaking and can easily be fixed with a $5 gasket. Be sure when you take off the cover bolts to return the spacer under the bolt that holds the brake line on the upper right corner and only add fluid until even with plug hole. There are 2 halves for TT axles. They both slide together from both sides. When together from both sides they would look like a miniature axle with wheels on a model) With both sides out, you could see all the way through the axle to the other side (if both thrust block's fell out). For TT rear axle it's part #1544810 (2) For non tt axle it's part #530706 (1) Twin Traction Axle Pin's: It is possible to pull the axle without the pins dropping out. The pin is in the very center as you look down the tube. You may notice it as a small flat circle, but if it is out you will be able to probably see a hole a little smaller than the size of brake tubing and see all the way through the other side if both halves fell out. If both halves of the pin (1 slides into the other from both sides looking like a miniature axle with wheels on a model) are in your OK. If it fell out you will need to fish it out of the axle tube and make a tool to replace it/them. 1. Take a wire such as a coat hanger and slide it through 1/2 axle lenght of straight brake tubing so it sticks out several inches on each side. 2. This will work like a dip stick placing the one end through the tube and then the pins small center hole (you may have to file the wire to fit snug or go through the pin and put a slight bend to hold it until it's in the hole). 3. When you have fished out the pin and have it on the wire sticking out of the tube, you can carefully place it back into it's center location. Placing some grease on the pin will help hold it in place. 4. While pressing the tubing against the pin (once in place), you can pull the wire out(like pulling the dip stick while holding the tube) and then the tube can be removed without the pin pulling out. Putting some grease on the pin helps create a suction to hold it in. I also recommend replacing one axle when it's pin is in before doing the other side, so it doesn't push out the opposite side pin while replacing the axle. You should do the left (drivers) side 1st. Your other problem may be shims. They should be located only on the right (passenger) side. With the proper amount of play and the tire on, you should be able to grab the tire sides and give the tire a push and a quick pull to hear a slight deep clunk without feeling any noticable play. By removing any of the current shims, you will be tightening the axle play. Another problem may be some tightness with the repacked bearings (it's best to test before taking apart or with dry bearings first). The backing plates also need to be tightened all the way to push the bearing race into the axle. Be sure this area is clean and the race goes all the way in. If it was fine before removal, you shouldn't need to add shims. Usually there is too much play after many miles. Studebaker recomended Avanti axle bearing's be repacked every 25,000 miles. Many Avanti have NEVER been repacked! When was the last time your Avanti axle bearing's been repacked? Make shure you check everything out if it does not seem right. Twin Traction is a great option, I but know a few people who didn't use gear oil designed for posi type axles and making turns became real problem. Check the gear oil for use in Posi Traction, Twin Traction, type use. There is also a additive for other gear oil when used in Twin Traction. You can find the proper gear oil, seals and cover gasket at most any auto parts store. (James & Stephanie Bell - studenut@az.com) 08 Dec 98 ------------------------------------------------------------- The Dana 45 is a standard Dana 44 with a Twin Traction unit. The '45' refers to the angle of the locking crosspins in the differential. ------------------------------------------------------------- ----------- BEARING INSTALLATION// ---- f one were to put the new axle in the freezer overnight and make sure that the new bearing is around 120°, I'll betcha you wouldn't need a press... JT ----- unlike some axles with a distinct shoulder to stop the bearing, with enough pressure the Stude/Avanti bearing could be pressed on until the inner race splits. Press the bearing on until the inner race is 4 7/16" from the end of the axle threads and you'll be close to factory spec. ------------------------------------- July 2005 After greasing the bearings, Reassembling the rear axle shafts Reinstall everything as per the NCSDC website. 1) Assemble the Drivers side completely, including the backing plate. Do not install the brakes (yet). Install the axle nut flush with the end of the axle (So you can tap on it). 2)Then, (partially) assemble the passenger side. Use only the Axle, Bearing, Bearing race, Shims, and Reinforcement plate. First, slide in the axle, making sure it engages the splines. Second, slide the Passenger side BEARING RACE into the axle tube- and lightly tap it in. IT WILL NOT SEAT FULLY INTO THE TUBE! DO NOT FORCE IT! 3)Install the axle nut flush with the end of the passenger side axle. Use a wooden block on the end of the passenger side axle- to "tap" the AXLE in all the way (this does NOT move the drivers side bearing race). Re-tap the passenger side bearing race. 4)What this does is "seat" the drivers side bearing race against the drivers side backing plate. 5) use your stack of shims to build up the passenger side axle tube end housing flush with the passenger side bearing race... Temporarily install the passenger side Reinforcement plate. Snug the bolts but DO NOT TIGHTEN! 6)Tap on the end of each axle with the block of wood and a hammer. First the Drivers side, then the passenger side. 7) You should be able to grab the end of the Passenger side axle- and feel a VERY SMALL amount of in/out movement. If there is NO movement(no endplay), add more shims. If you can visibly see alot of movement (too much endplay), remove a couple shims. You will have to do this Trial-and-Error, until you are sure you have "some" endplay. Ray Ficthorn -------------------- The above procedure is similar with flanged axles, however the passenger side has a threaded collar vs shims to adjust the endplay. Always assemble the drivers side first, then adjust the endplay last. BobJ -------------