Your brake "problem" doesn't sound like a matter of adjustment. It can be several things- but I'd check these first: 1) Residual pressure relief hole plugged/partially plugged inside the master cylinder. Remove cap- look inside the master cylinder- and you will see 2 holes in the bottom. The larger (front) hole- provides fuid to the piston. The smaller (rear) hole- bleeds off the residual pressure back into the MC after you take your foot off the brakes. IF this hole is plugged- the pressure builds up in the lines, and causes the shoes to drag. THIS IS VERY COMMON. 2) Your rubber lines to the front brakes- are beginning to deteriorate internally. This swelling will often result in the brakes dragging- because the hoses don't allow the pressure to bleed off. Replace the front hoses. 3) Pinched/crushed hard line between the brass junction block and the front hoses. Inspect the hard lines between the brass junction block- and the front rubber hoses. One may be kinked or crunched from road debris. This will also restrict the residual pressure from bleeding off. *** For those of you that have front disk brakes- Often, those that don't know- will replace the master cylinder with a cylinder for a NON-DB car. This will cause the front pads to constantly drag. The DB master cylinder- does not have a residual check valve on the spring inside the master cylinder. You can get a NON-DB cylinder- and defeat the check valve in several ways. Poke holes in the rubber baffle OR melt the rubber with a little heat from a propane torch. -------------------- A dual master with a residual pressure valve on the side for the rear brakes is a good idea. Disc brake Studes used a single circuit master with no residual pressure valve; and I think the seals, in the rear cylinders, get out of position and leak without it. It keeps a little pressure in the lines. Most masters made for drum/disc combinations will have it. Make sure you don't connect the discs to the port with this feature. It will be just like riding the brakes, and they will over heat! I had to shorten the push rod, just a little, to get release clearance. I cut the threaded end and cleaned the threads up. A special plug came with mine; for the unused port on the brake line connector block. Mike------ ------------------------- Add residual check valves when the M/C is below the calipers/wheel cylinders, AND an adjustable proportiong valve, dial it right in! Jim Turner