Took the Speedster out for it's longest jaunt (5 whole miles round trip) this weekend to the gas station. What an adventure! I have the original 259 and DG-250M (I had the transmission rebuilt by a guy who's retired but that was his professional life) in it. I've attempted to adjust the throttle-to-transmission linkage several times per the manual and just not getting the performance I would expect. It's very sluggish on acceleration and occasionally, when it up shifts, it grinds momentarily. I've had problems with it engaging in D unless I put it in L first. Coming to a stop, the engine almost stalls and the whole car shudders then it seems to catch itself and start idling again. R seems to work fine. Bit of a clunk when it first goes into gear, but I can deal. P and N seem to do their job. So I throw myself upon the mercy of the NG and ask your help. I know that my "type" is most annoying to you veterans, but your help is deeply appreciated. Perhaps the best place to start is a fresh "interpretation" of the manual's adjustment instructions? This is the only thing keeping me from enjoying the car fully and I'd like to drive it much, much more. Thanks, James -------------------- I would start with the simple things first. Transmission fluid level in this transmission is checked differently than most any AT made since then. After you have warmed the fluid - at least ten miles of driving - leave the car at idle, set the park brake, block a wheel in both directions, put the transmission in "L" and check the fluid. Bring the fluid up to the indicated level with the car at idle and in "L". Before this, make sure that your car is idling at the correct speed - not too fast. Good luck. There are many others here that know much more about AT's than I. Gary L. ---------------- Thanks. I have checked the fluid as described (except for the 10 miles of driving part -- well warmed at idle and shifted through all gears a lot) and it appears fine. I will double-check the idle setting tonight when I get home. Thanks. -------------- That is the most critical adjustment. If you have to go into any other gear but drive to get drive to work, you are not building up enough pressure. Before you go nuts, try and go once more thru the throttle linkage adjustent. If it is anything like what is in the HFH the rod "tells" the transmission when to shift and at what speed. By shortening the rod you make the shifts closer, and buy extending the rod you delay the shift. You should pardon the expression, but it sounds like your rod is too long. Also check to see if your converter is leaking down. To do this, start the car and let it idle in drive or reverse, if the converter is leaking down it will take a minute or two before you start to move. Billy ---- Sometimes, a poor performing reverse function on a DG tranny can be linked to improper band adjustment but the more likely cause usually is bad "o" rings on the modulators, (those thangs that stick out on each side). I'm not sure if they can be reworked with the transmission in the car... ========= The bands are right on and not burned. Yes, the modulators can be serviced without removing the tranny. I've had all three of 'em off and checked out three times already. I've been fighting this problem for the past 5 or 6 months. It will back up only when the engine is idleing at a very low RPM. As soon as I give it some gas the tranny goes into neutral. Every thing else works perfect. No hard shifts, no clanks, no bumps, no grinds. Jerry Forrester =========== In that case... I concur that the valve body may be suspect. For its day, the DG transmission was very sophisticated with numerous safety interlocks which sometimes contribute to its undoing.. ------- my guess - valve body gasket. Gary L. --------- ----------- I enjoyed the DG250M tranny ( first gear start) in my '55 Pres Coupe until it starting giving me trouble. On the way home from work one day whan the traffic light turned green all the cars in front of me started moving but I couldn't move until the engine reved to about 3500 RPM. It acted the same way in reverse. I removed the valve body, disassembled it, cleaned it, inspected it, fondled it, caressed it, found nothing wrong and reassembled it and then did the same thing with the forward and reverse servos as well with the extension case. When all was said and done I ended up with a tranny that worked perfectly in first, second, and third gears but when put in reverse it would only move when the engine was idleing, as soon as I accelerate the tranny shifts in neutral. Let the engine go back to idle and the tranny catchs reverse again. This is okay on level ground but is a bitch when on an incline. I have almost worn out the bolts and the threads in the case removing and reinstalling the rear case and the valve body. Still no improvments. Now, back to the present........... Last week-end I acquired a parts transmission. It has what (looks) like a good valve body. I'm going into the trans. one more time and install the newlly acquired valve body with all new gaskets. Wish me luck. Jerry Forrester ========== NO REVERSE///// \\\\\the reverse band on mine is broken and the repair shop wants $1,400 plus parts,\\\\\ Regarding a bad reverse, it is usually bad "o" rings in the servo, a repair that can be done without disassembling the entire transmission as the DG servos are external. Also, the DG is a very stout unit and band breakage is very rare...