Door adjustments on a Hawk, can be lengthy and can wear you out.  If you haven't yet, don't remove 
the hinge from the jamb at all.  It was installed there at the factory and you'll almost never get the
 door back to the right place without a lot of work.  It's not actually adjustable at the jamb hinge screws,
 but can slip position.

At the Factory, the method of attaching sheet metal to the car was.  Install the rear fenders.  Then,
 install the doors and adjust them to meet the fenders at the rear door edge. Then, install the front
 fenders and adjust them to meet the doors at the front door edge.  Doors, sometimes had to be adjusted
 outward at the front hinge by using shim plates between the door and top hinge.

 The hinges at the pivots are NOT bushed, the pin rides right in the hinge metal.  So, if the pivot 
pins are worn out or the hole in the hinge is excessively oblong, you have to drill it to the next
 size and install bushings and new pins.  Google Windber Restorations for what you need.
 
 Only a small bit of wear at the pivot pin, translates to a a lot more movement at the lock end of 
the door. You can adjust a door, even with bad hinges, but the action will eventually get sloppy again
 and require another adjustment.  If the door height is suitable at the front jamb, but sags at the 
rear jamb, you can remedy the problem.

Try this:  A few tools...  a good correct size phillips screwdriver, a carpenters flat prybar, a hammer 
and a beachtowel.  Open the door. Take the seat bottom out (so you have room to work).  Take the 
upholstery panel off the door.  Loosen the 3 upper hinge screws (on the DOOR) enough to allow the door 
to keep it's  position, but be moveable under force.  (Loosen ONLY the upper ones) Fold the towel over
 on itself along the rocker panel, so it builds up.  Get in the car with the prybar and the Phillips
 screwdriver.   SLAM the door, in order to latch it.  The buildup of towels on the rocker should 
cause the door to rise and meet the fenderline.  Adjust the towelling to suit the requirement.  Use 
the prybar under the jamb (from the inside) to adjust and fine-tune the  position.  Then, use hammer 
taps on the TOP, rear edge of the hinge, to force it downward and remove the play.  Then, tighten the
 3 screws on the door.  Open the door, remove the towel and close it.

   The above will only take the slack out of the top hinge.  When you have the door closing suitably,
 tighten the upper hinge and then check the door once more.  If you're satisifed, close the door and 
slightly loosen lower hinge screws on the DOOR.  Use the hammer to tap the end of the hinge UPWARD.  
Once that's done, you've taken all the slack out of the pins and the door should stay that way for a
 while.

You can use the jack under the rear bottom of the door method, but this tends to make the fine 
adjustment, harder to control.  You have to have the door in a closed position to adjust the hinges.

Make sure you oil the hinges to keep the action from wearing much more...