/////Does anyone know of a modern(dual output) master cylinder that will bolt up to my 62 Lark? It looks like it could use a two bolt master cylinder, because the bore is right in between the two bottom bolt holes(that mount on the firewall, that is). Thanks.//////////// ---------------- Installing a Tandem Brake Master Cylinder On a 1962 Lark This is how I installed a tandem brake master cylinder on a 1962 Lark that didn't have power or disc brakes (all four wheels were drum brakes). I removed the existing master cylinder and replaced the two upper mounting bolts in their original holes. They anchor the swing pedal assembly so don't leave them out. I then used a Wagner #F71264 (new) or R71264 (rebuilt) master cylinder and two brass fitting adapters, #7897 and #7911 Weatherhead brand purchased separately. Mount the master cylinder on the firewall using the remaining two lower mounting bolts. Install the adapters in the maste r cylinder outlets. One is larger than the other and they can only be installed one way. Then take the existing brake line that was attached to the old master cylinder and bend it to fit into the master cylinder outlet NEAREST THE FIREWALL and assemble. Next you will need five feet of 3/16 brake line. Purchase this with fittings on both ends so you will not have to make any tubing flares. At the brake distribution block locate the steel brake line going to the rear brakes. It will go back to a union beneath the front seat on the frame. Disconnect and remove this line paying attention to the frame mounting clips. Next, using patience, bend the five foot brake line to go from the front master cylinder outlet to the existing union on the frame. Run it parallel to the existing line down to the brake distribution block and then rearward to the union. When the line is finally bent to fit, install it and don't forget to use the frame mounting clips the old line used to secure it on the frame. You can use a Everco #300B (old part number) which is a 3/16 SAE inverted flare steel brake plug to fit into the opening left at the brake distribution block. The next task is to fit the brake pedal push rod. The stock one is too long and the one that comes with the master cylinder is longer yet. The stock push rod will have to shortened about 3/8". To check this hold the brake pedal back and test fit the push rod. You will want about 1/8" free play when installed. Shorten the rod in small increments because it is very easy to remove too much resulting in a low brake pedal at rest. (If you do make a mistake the push rod that comes with the new master cylinder can be used and shortened because it uses the same size shoulder bolt mount to the pedal.) I used a mechanical brake light switch from a 1965-83 GM or Ford, General brand #31180 or Borg Warner #S-237. Mount on a plate about 3/4" x 2" long and secure with the brake pedal stop bolt. When adjusting the brake light switch don't adjust it too close to the pedal or your freeplay will be lost. To wire the stop light switch, solder extension wires on the existing wires and route through the firewall to the switch. All that is left is to bleed the brakes per the 1963-64 manual. Chuck Collins ------------ I put one on my '62 convertible. Just ask for a master cylinder for a '70 Chevy Nova with drum brakes. It bolts right up, cost $18.00 + $ 5.00 core around here, and is readily available. Only difference is the lines come in on the fender side which is beter anyway, as it allows more room for accessing spark plugs. You also need to do something about your brake light switch. Either mount a switch on the pedal, or mount the pressure switch on the front brake line.