Power Steering Valve (On the car reseal) << As far as the leaking control valve, I found in my years of servicing these that if you just looked at those seals crossways the rear one would pinch when you put it in housing. The front seal in the control valve is no problem as that goes in such that the taper on the seal compresses as it goes in; but on that rear one, since it is going in with the knife edge first, it will pinch, or bend over in a heartbeat. Best trick I found was to gently use a wooden cuticle tool from my wife's bathroom kit and gently use the 'spade' end to carefully force the seal in all around the bore. >> Well, Randee, your diagnosis and cure for my leaky control valve were right on target. This is the first time I have repaired one of these while it was on the car, but the instructions that came with the seals from Studebaker International were pretty clear on how to do it. Both of the seals were trashed. I took your hint above on installing the second seal, only I used the plastic tooth pick from a Victoronix Swiss Army knife to get the wiping edge of the seal started in the bore. It was thin enough that it worked real well. I just worked by way around the seal pushing on the seal gently with a small flat screw driver blade as I coaxed the wiping edge into the bore with the toothpick. It is back together, and it does not leak. Stan Gundry ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- << 1. Anybody repaired their control valve? Is it difficult? 2. Should I get the kit and replace the hoses and keep the 2 other seal kits in my spare parts box? 3. Does anybody sell a rebuilt control valve? >> Yes, Barry, I repaired one of these control valves on the car without removing it just last week. I sent out amessage detailing how I got the back seal into position using the plastic toothpick from a Vicotonix Swiss aremy knife. I used the $15.50 kit you speak of. It comes with good instructions and the kit stopped my leak. However, before going to that trouble, put your car up on ramps and make sure the leaks are not coming from the hoses or the connections of the tubing/hoses to the valve. As it turned our mine was leaking both places. After I got the connections tightened down and leak free, I still had a leak. I would not replace the hoses unless they seemed to be leaking, cracking, soft, or otherwise decaying. Make that decision based on their condition. Stan Gundry -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- The control valve is not hard to reseal, and can be done on the car. The book Stan Gundry's shop manual supplement has even a better explanation then the factory shop manual has for putting in new seals. You should try first getting the two control valve seals from any of the major vendors, Stude Inter., Ted Harbit, Jon Myer or Dave Thiebault and very carefully replace the seals. Just be careful that the lip of either seal doesn't get squished or it will still leak. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Power steering: If the hoses are in good condition, the next thing is establish which of the seats where the hoses connect to the unit may be leaking. If it is the seat, install a small "O" neo ring in first and then screw it down tight. Work goog for me 1963 R2: ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Then remove the rear end cap from the control valve and possible back off the nut about one to 1-1/2 turns and replace the cap. That should make it easier to turn. If that nut is too tight, it will take away all the power steering effect. Then check and make sure your hoses are all tight in their seats. I've had them leak there before, and tightening them help slowed or stop the leak. Once it is steering correctly and easily, if it still leaks, get the control valve seals for About $15 from Studebaker International or Ted Harbit and replace the seals in the control valve from UNDER the car. You can do it by removing the end cap, the spool valve nut behind it and the two cap screws on the front of the valve body, then sliding the valve body off. Once off, you can remove the existing seals, and carefully replace the seals from either side.... DO NOT put one seal on and slide it all the way through the valve body. This will damage the edge of the seal's sealing lip. Just carefully insert each seal from the end, carefully sliding it into the bore. --------------------------------------------------