You cannot "ground" at the gauge as this is not how fuel gauges are 
wired! The ground wire at the sending unit acts as the "input" to the 
sending unit (really just a variable resister) with the lead from the 
center terminal (stud) being the output to the gauge. Current flows 
FROM negative TO positive (NOT , as most people believe, from 
positive to negative)negative "gives up" electrons, positive "grabs" 
electrons. By wiring a fuel gauge in this manner you reduce or 
eliminate the possibility of sparking across the wiring in a sending 
unit! (A GOOD thing...NO?) Also, check www.stewartwarner.com for a 
distributor in your area as they will carry the newer "thick film" 
style sending units (a FAR more reliable, solid state, version) for 
around $21.00!! For my 82' a #385C-F was an EXACT replacement and 
will last about 3-4 times as long as the orig. resistance / wire 
wound style did! You do have to crimp on a ring style terminal in 
place of the stud mount terminal (that was stock on my 82')and set 
the depth on the new sending unit (I seem to remember 10-1/2" being 
correct) but it is WELL WORTH the effort as the gauge functions far 
more smoothly. One last note, it DID make a difference which sending 
unit mounting screw I attached the groung wire to as to how well the 
gauge functioned. Beware of vendors trying to get rid of their old 
stock of wire wound sending units and if your oil pressure sending 
unit is bad GET THE THICK FILM VERSION!!! It will out live the 
stocker by a factor of 10!! Also around $20.00 at my distributor in 
Batavia, IL. Oil pressure sending unit #279A.
Tom Gorr
RQB3449   July 2003
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SEALING
I make all of my fuel sender gaskets out of 3/32" thick cork/neoprene 
composition gasket material.  Carquest # JV122.  You will need to replace 
the 5 copper sealing washers under the head of the 5 mounting screws.  If 
you don't, it will still leak around the screw heads.
Ron (Butts)  Aug 2005
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