Have the new parts handy before you start.  The wheel bearing seal is usually trashed in this procedure, so get it out anyway you can.   Note, beforehand, how the seal sits in the hub. Sometimes new seals look a lot different, than the old ones.
   Since the angle of the W.B. races are facing out, they are removed with a flat tip punch from the inner, opposite side of each, reaching thru the hub. A small amount of the race is exposed on the ledge it sits on.  Small taps around the perimeter, will push it out.  Of course if you have a bearing race remover, it helps.
 Install the new race, by tapping it around the perimeter, but using some protective device under the hammer.  Once the new one is  even with the hub, you can use the old one as a pusher tool to finish the job.  If it gets stuck, just tap it out the way you did the first time.  Put some W.B. grease in the hub and stuff paper towels into the ends until you're ready to mount the wheel.
  The spindles have bushings, not bearings.   You need a bushing driver set to remove and insert these.   You might be able to find a long socket to act as a driver, but it can get stuck in the bore also.    Once the new ones are in, they may need to be reamed, to fit the kingpin.  It can be easier to do this before you install them.   If the KP surface is galled, you either have to get a machine shop to resurface them and install a sleeve or spring for a rebuilt KP set from S.I. 

 Note; there is a hole in the bushing, that lines up with the grease fitting.  This has to be there or you drill one and align it on installation.  Unless you get NOS bushings, there's a good chance the ones you acquire won't even look like the old.  Be sure to mark you kingpins as to which side they came off of.