In the spring I want to rebuild the rear brakes on my 62 GT. The wheel cylinders were already replaced in the spring. I have one severely out of round drum so I want to replace both rear drums, shoes and springs. I would like to pick this up at the swap meet in South Bend next spring. Who would be the best source to get all of these parts, Studebaker International? Anyone else? Thanks.
The First thing you need to do is find a Machinist that has the Swagging and swage cutting Tools and knows how to cut the swages (staking) off of the Studs, separate the Hub and Drum, Install the Hubs into the New Drums and and re-swage New Studs into the Assembly.
This is because as Studebaker did, the Suppliers of new rear drums made them without Hubs.
There were NOS Hub and Drum Assemblies also, but now very few remain, mostly only for the seldom needed applications.
Last edited by StudeRich; 10-07-2018 at 03:06 PM.
StudeRich
Second Generation Stude Driver,
Proud '54 Starliner Owner
I should have mentioned that I have Fairborn Studebaker flange axles so all I need is the bare drums. Any idea where to get them?Originally Posted by StudeRich
If you don't have flanged rear axles, it is more convenient to NOT swage the studs on the hubs when you replace the drums. The brake drums will center on the hubs and studs, but you can pull the drums off without pulling the hubs. It makes it much easier to check or rebuild the rear brakes. Some people have cut the swages even without replacing the drums to gain this benefit.
Gary Ash
Dartmouth, Mass.
'32 Indy car replica (in progress)
'48 M5
'65 Wagonaire Commander
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They are here: https://studebakervendors.com
Here's what my 1962 GT Hawk rear repro drums from S-I look like with studs installed in the flange. No swaging. Easy removal.
Bill L.
1962 GT Hawk
Agreed! The studs can easilly be pressed out to remove an old drum from the hub without cutting swages if done properly, but, the studs will be destroyed in the process, so they will need replacing. Once replaced, the new drum will center just fine on the new stud's sholders and no swage is necessary.
Last edited by bensherb; Today at 12:36 AM.
If you drive out the old studs, can you provide the part# of the new studs as shown on the picture?
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