BELOW ARE THE DISC-BRAKE KIT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS
AND BELOW THESE ARE
THE DUAL MASTER CYLINDER KIT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTION
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INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE
TURNER BRAKE
DISC BRAKE CONVERSION KIT
WHEN ALL ELSE FAILS, READ THESE INSTRUCTIONS!!!
BEFORE
YOU START, LOOK AT THE PRE-ASSEMBLED PARTS TO FAMILIARIZE YOURSELF
WITH THE LOCATION OF EACH PIECE AND PART! AND BE SURE TO READ THESE
INSTRUCTIONS CAREFULLY!! AS YOUR SAFETY DEPENDS ON THE PROPER INSTALLATION OF THIS BRAKE KIT!
IF
A POWER BOOSTER IS NOT USED! YOU MAY EXPERIENCE A HARDER BRAKE PEDAL,
HOWEVER, WITH THE ADDITION OF THE DISC BRAKES, YOU WILL MOST LIKELY NOT
NOTICE IT.
THIS KIT WAS
DESIGNED ESPECIALLY FOR THE STUDEBAKER AVANTI, HOWEVER SINCE STUDEBAKER
USED THE SAME PASSENGER CAR SPINDLES FROM 1953-1966, AND AVANTI
MOTORS USED THE SAME SPINDLES AS STUDEBAKER THRU 1984, THIS KIT IS
COMPATIBLE WITH ALL. THIS KIT WILL ALSO WORK ON OTHER MODELS ALONG WITH
THE AVANTI 2. HOWEVER, STUDEBAKER CHANGED FROM 4-1/2" x 15” WHEELS TO
5-1/2" WHEELS ON THE AVANTI. THEREFORE IF THIS KIT IS USED ON ANYTHING
OTHER THAN AN AVANTI, YOU MAY HAVE TO USE 5-1/2" x 15” WHEELS OR THE
NEW CALIPER MAY NOT CLEAR THE WHEEL!
*** IMPORTANT ***
READ THIS SECTION ON NON-AVANTI INSTALLATIONS!!
IF THIS KIT IS
USED ON ANYTHING OTHER THAN AN AVANTI, THE MASTER CYLINDER MUST BE
DISASSEMBLED, AND THE RESIDUAL CHECK VALVE DEFEATED. THIS MUST BE DONE!
OTHERWISE BRAKE LINE PRESSURE WILL CONTINUE TO BUILD UP AND
EVENTUALLY LOCK UP THE FRONT BRAKES. TO DEFEAT THE RESIDUAL CHECK
VALVE, (REFER TO THE SHOP MANUAL FOR LOCATION) EITHER REMOVE THE VALVE
ALTOGETHER OR PUNCH A SMALL HOLE IN IT TO DEFEAT ITS PURPOSE! IT MAY
ALSO BE NECESSARY TO INSTALL A 2# RESIDUAL CHECK VALVE IN THE FRONT
LINE AND 10# CHECK VALVE IN THE REAR LINE. IT MAY ALSO BE NECESSARY TO
USE LATER STUDEBAKER BEARINGS, (A-2, A-6 GROUP)
Remove the stock Avanti/Studebaker brake
parts as per the Avanti/Studebaker shop manual; be sure to also remove
the stock caliper mounting brackets, and dust shields.
CLEAN AND INSPECT THE STOCK STUDEBAKER SPINDLES
CHECK THE ENCLOSED PARTS LIST AND BE SURE YOU RECEIVED ALL THE PARTS.
In the kit you will see (2) cup-like
machined sleeves, these are called grease seal track adapters. The
purposes of these are to 1; space the rotor out to the proper location
on the spindle and 2; provide a machined surface for the grease seal to
ride.
This sleeve is purposely-machined .002"
undersize to the thick part of the spindle, so when heated, it will
expand to slide over the spindle and butt up solid against the face of
the spindle. When the sleeve cools, it will shrink fit on to the
spindle.
TO INSTALL THE GREASE SEAL TRACK ADAPTERS, A WELDING OR PROPANE TORCH MUST BE USED! DO NOT ATTEMPT TO INSTALL THIS PART WITHOUT HEATING IT UP!!!
2
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Using a butane or welding torch, and a pair of channel lock pliers, heat up one of the grease seal track adapters, red hot,
and slide it over the spindle. To make sure that the grease seal track
adapter is properly seated up against the spindle flange, (SEE FIGURE 1, recessed end toward the motor) use a small piece of pipe and a hammer and GENTLY TAP
on the face of the adapter to make sure that it butts up solid against
the spindle flange. Repeat the same procedure for the other side. BE SURE TO GENTLY TAP THE ADAPTER, DO NOT BEAT IT ON!!
FIGURE 1, WITHOUT TRACK
ADAPTER FIGURE 1B, WITH TRACK
ADAPTER
Now install the caliper mounting brackets, (these are also marked (LEFT AND RIGHT) to
the inside of the caliper mounting adapter brackets using (2) 1/2 x 1
1/4 bolts, and (2) lock washers, along with red loctite and TORQUE THESE BOLTS TO 75-80 FT. LBS. This needs to be done BEFORE going on to the next step!
Next
install the caliper-mounting adapter, (the thick-machined bracket with
the (4) standoff spacers on it); these brackets are marked (LEFT & RIGHT)!
These brackets are mounted to the inside of the spindle flange (toward
the engine) by using the back (3) holes on the spindle flange and the
upper front hole on the spindle flange. To install this bracket,
use (4) 3/8 x 1 1/4 hex head bolts along with lock washers. BE SURE TO USE RED LOCTITE ALONG WITH THE LOCK WASHERS, AND TORQUE ALL THESE BOLTS TO 45-50 FT. LBS. Repeat the above step for the other side.
After you have
finished mounting these brackets, be sure that the caliper will be in
back of the spindle, not in front as originally installed on the
Studebakers. (SEE FIGURE 2)
FIGURE 2
3
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The Ford rotors use the same wheel bearing as the Studebaker, the bolt pattern is also the same, However, THE FORD GREASE SEAL MUST BE USED. Ford part # C8AZ-1190-A. or an aftermarket seal # (6815)
Now take a look at the G.M.
caliper, on the bottom of the caliper, under the piston housing, there
is a casting tab hanging down. This tab has no structural function
what so ever, and for the caliper to clear the caliper-mounting
bracket, this tab must be removed. A belt sander works best to remove
this tab, however, a small hand held grinder, or an electric drill with
a grinding disk can also be used. Be sure that the caliper clears the
mounting bracket. DO NOT INSTALL THE CALIPERS AT THIS TIME!! Use of the 1997 S-10 4 X 4 caliper eliminates this step! OEM # 18-4129, 18-4129
Now install the Ford
rotors (Ford part #C8OZ-1102-A) or the after-market R-M rotors (R-M #
6006), the only difference is the price. These rotors are from 1968-1969
Mustangs or Cougars. BE SURE TO ADJUST THE WHEEL BEARINGS PER THE STUDEBAKER SHOP MANUAL.
It may be necessary to use 2
axle nut washers to obtain the proper wheel bearing adjustment. If you
experience a problem with the grease dust caps, try using the
Mustang/Cougar caps. OR the stock Studebaker caps! (Lark type) they seem
to be deeper then the new aftermarket caps.
Before installing the disk brake pads, you will
notice that on the two stock G.M. inner pads, a small piece of metal
riveted to one end. This is the early warning wear indicator, this
“tab” should clear the caliper bracket with out any problem.
Now the calipers and brake pads are ready for installation on the vehicle. BE
SURE THAT THE CALIPER MOUNTING PINS ARE FOUR (4) INCHES LONG FROM THE
END OF THE PIN TO JUST UNDER THE HEAD. GENERAL MOTORS MAKES A NUMBER
OF DIFFERENT SIZES FOR DIFFERENT APPLICATIONS!! THE CORRECT PART NUMBER
IS 5468226, BE SURE THESE PINS ARE FOUR (4) INCHES LONG TO THE HEAD OF
THE PIN, OR 4 1/2 INCHES IN TOTAL LENGTH!!
When mounting the calipers be sure to use the LEFT caliper on the LEFT side, and the RIGHT caliper on the RIGHT side, BE SURE THAT THE BLEEDER SCREWS ARE ON THE TOP OF THE CALIPER. The drivers’ side of the vehicle is the left side and the passenger side is the right side.
Before installing the
calipers on the brackets, be sure to install the brake lines, Wagner #
BH38160 , this hose is approximately 16 inches long. It
is no longer necessary to start the banjo bolt in the caliper before
installing it. This has been eliminated utilizing the S-10
4 X 4 calipers.
We here at TURNER BRAKE
have strived to create the best product along with the ease of
installation as we can. However, We cannot install each and every kit
on a vehicle prior to delivery, if you or your mechanic does run into a
problem. PLEASE let us know, so we can look into it, as we are constantly trying to improve our design.
TO INSURE YOUR SAFETY,We
suggest after the first 1000 miles, you should pull one or both sides
apart and inspect the spindles, and bearings for abnormal wear
patterns. DO NOT REMOVE THE GREASE SEAL TRACK ADAPTERS.
TO
HELP US KEEP OUR RECORDS IN PROPER ORDER, PLEASE COMPLETE THE LAST
PAGE OF THESE INSTRUCTIONS AND RETURN IT TO THE ADDRESS BELOW. THANK
YOU.
Rev 10/2009
4
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TURNER BRAKE
DISC BRAKE KIT PART NUMBER LISTING
QUANTITY
DESCRIPTION
PART NUMBER
1
G.M. LEFT
CALIPER
18005262 or OEM 18-4128
1
G.M. RIGHT
CALIPER
18005263 or OEM 18-4129
2
G.M. CALIPER REBUILD
KITS
18003724
4
G.M. CALIPER MOUNTING BOLTS H5004
1
SET
G.M. BRAKE PADS
D-154
2
NAPA BANJO
BOLTS
82703
4
G.M. BANJO BOLT
WASHERS
14000172
2
RAYBESTES BRAKE
LINES
BH38160
2
FORD GREASE SEALS
6815
2
FORD
ROTORS
C8OZ-1102-A
OR
RAYBESTES
AFTERMARKET
ROTORS
6006
1
CHRYSLER ADJUSTABLE
PROPORTIONING VALVE
*
P5249088
2
NAPA Dust
Caps
730-2412
* MAY BE NECESSARY WITH DUAL MASTER CYLINDER
EQUIPPED VEHICLES, AND MODELS OTHER THAN AVANTI’S
5
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THIS STEP IS FOR NON AVANTI INSTALLATIONS ONLY
HOW TO REMOVE A RESIDUAL VALVE FROM A MASTER CYLINDER
[1] Master cylinders used in trailer
Hydraulic surge brake couplers are available either fitted with a
residual valve [check valve], or without the residual valve in place.
If a trailer braking system uses drum brakes the master cylinder should
be equipped with a residual valve. This check valve maintains
approximately 10# to 15# of hydraulic pressure [priming pressure] on
the hydraulic circuit, from the master cylinder out to the drum brake
wheel cylinders. This reduces the time of brake activation, by
overcoming the pressure created by the drum brake return spring.
[2] If , however the trailer is to be equipped with DISC Brakes the
10# to 15# pressure created by the residual valve will partially
activate the disc brakes, during highway travel , causing brake
overheating and failure.
[3] If the master cylinder is equipped with a residual valve it
will be necessary to remove the residual valve to eliminate it's
hydraulic effect on the disc brakes. WARNING: Puncturing the residual valve can damage components internal to the master cylinder, and should not be attempted.
[4] To remove the residual valve, proceed as follows. As per the
drawing below, remove the rubber dust boot exposing the Snap Ring.
Compress the snap ring and remove. Be aware that the return
spring is under compression and upon removal of the snap ring, the
piston may shoot out of the cylinder. You should use some
counter acting force to retard this problem. Upon removal of the snap
ring, remove the piston, and the return spring. As the return spring is
removed you will find the Residual valve inserted into, and thereby
affixed to the return spring. Snap the Residual valve out of the return
spring, then reassemble the remaining components in the reverse order
from disassembly. Note that there is a thick rubber washer in the far
end of the master cylinder tube that probably did not come out when the
other components were disassembled. This is the washer that the
residual valve previously sealed against. It is important that this
washer be left in place in the master cylinder. Because of it’s
thickness it will provide proper spacing for the length of the return
spring to properly operate with the new disc brake assembly.
[5] Now, upon final assembly you can use the master cylinder with your
disc brake system.
6
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HELPFUL TIPS
Be sure to torque ALL the bolts, they are only hand tight
when I ship them out!
Do not try to rush assembly of this kit! YOUR life depends on
proper installation of this kit.
All of the “wearable” parts are common off the shelf parts,
available in almost all parts stores.
Should you have any questions, please call AFTER 7 PM
eastern time, if you call before, leave a number where you can
be reached AFTER 7 pm eastern time, As I run a large
Independant Collision Center in Town.
I try to make the International Meet, York, and
Reedsville each year. Stop by my booth and say HI!
Stock Studebaker NON disc brake wheels will not
clear the caliper, I recommend NEW wheels from Bob
Helm in Royse City Texas, 972-843-3402 after 6 pm
Brake fluid, I have used silicone fluid (DOT 5) in my 52
Commander, with NO “ill” effects, My 63 Avanti has
regular (DOT 3) in it. Both work fine. BUT if you
change to DOT 5, FLUSH the complete system out
with alcohol! Better yet, rebuild and or replace all the
wheels cylinders, hoses and master cylinder!
Be sure to CHECK ALL you steel lines for signs of
rust! They are at least 40 years old!
It is “recommended” that brake hoses be replaces
every 3 years! Not sure I agree 100% with that, but---
8
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TURNER BRAKE
1953 thru 1964 STUDEBAKER UNDER FLOOR
DUAL MASTER CYLINDER PACKING LIST
DRUM BRAKES ALL 4 WHEELS
1 MASTER CYLINDER MOUNT BRACKET
1 MASTER CYLINDER MOUNT BRACKET BRACE
1 NEW LINKAGE / PIN ADAPTER*
2 3/8 24 X 3¼ GRADE 8
MOUNTING BOLTS*
2 5/ 16 24 X 1 ½ GRADE 8 BOLTS M/C MOUNT BOLTS*
1 5/16 24 X 1 GRADE 8 BOLTS
14 3/8 WASHERS
3 3/8 LOCK WASHERS
3 3/8 LOCK NUTS
3 5/16 LOCK WASHERS
3 5/16 LOCK
NUTS
1 3/16 COTTER PIN
2 10# RESIDUAL CHECK VALVES WITH FITTINGS
1 ADJUSTABLE PROPORTIONING
VALVE
2 3/16 BRASS
UNIONS
1 1” PLASTIC BODY PLUG
1 SET COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS
LIST OF MASTER CYLINDERS
*NOTE, EVEN THOUGH LOCK WASHERS ARE PROVIDED IN THIS
BRAKE KIT, WE HIGHLY RECOMMEND THE USE OF RED LOCTITE
ON ALL BOLTS!!!
1
INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE TURNER BRAKE DUAL MASTER CYLINDER MOUNT BRACKET,
1953 through 1964 passenger cars
WHEN ALL ELSE FAILS, READ THESE INSTRUCTIONS!
Remove
your stock master cylinder as per the Studebaker shop manual; you must
also remove the strap, which goes from the brake pedal pivot to the
master cylinder. Once this is done you are ready to begin installing
the TURNER BRAKE dual master cylinder mount bracket.
************** PLEASE NOTE ON SOME APPLICATIONS***************
On
some sedan models, it may be necessary to drill a large hole (2 1/8”)
in the body support directly behind the master cylinder. This will give
enough clearance for the master cylinder to clear, and also enough
room to install the brake line.
Carefully
select the master cylinder, which will fit your application, (with or
with out disc brakes). Since each master cylinder is slightly
different, both internally and externally it will be necessary to
install a residual check valve (RCV) in both the front and rear lines!
This is necessary due to the fact that the master cylinder is mounted
below the wheel cylinders and calipers. To achieve proper brake pedal
travel, and over come the tension of the return springs.
Look at the bracket and familiarize yourself with how it mounts. The TURNER BRAKE master
cylinder bracket has been designed to bolt on the Studebaker frame in
the same location where the original master cylinder mounted, thus,
there are no holes to drill in the frame! Using the 2 3/8x24x31/2 GRADE
8 bolts mount the bracket directly to the frame, so that the one side
with two slots and one large hole is facing forward, and about 5” from
the brake pedal. Be sure to use the lock nuts along with the lock
washers and RED LOCTITE! These bolts should be torqued to 55ft lbs. REMEMBER THIS IS YOUR SAFTY!
Once
this is done, on to the brake pedal. Now take a look at the 1/8” thick
smaller bracket. This bracket ties the brake pedal to the TURNER BRAKE master
cylinder bracket, (as Studebaker did) Since you have already removed
the stock bracket that tied the brake pedal to the stock master
cylinder, Now reinstall the bolt that holds this on. You will also need
the 5/16”-24x1” bolt to hold this to the main bracket. Again, lock
washer, lock nut and red loctite and torque to 35-ft lbs. The TURNER BRAKE dual master cylinder mount bracket is now installed.
TURNER BRAKE
7293 Oakbay Drive
Noblesville, Indiana 46062
(317) 877-0453
WWW.TURNERBRAKE.COM
2
************** PLEASE NOTE ON SOME APPLICATIONS***************
Again,
some models may have a different length from the brake pedal to the
master cylinder bracket. If you run across this, you can use the stock
bracket and cut it to the correct length and bend it in a vise, or
modify the supplied bracket to work. In either case, YOU NEED TO INSTALL THIS BRACKET! It ties the pedal to the master cylinder for strength.
We at TURNER BRAKE have
always stressed for quality, and ease of installation. We have had a
special bolt/pin made by one of our suppliers. This bolt/pin is made of
4130 steel and is hardened for strength. This bolt/pin is slightly
stronger than a grade 10 bolt. Proper installation of this part is essential for your safety!
This
bolt/pin bolts to the brake pedal and lines up the pivot point to the
new master cylinder, (the centerline of a dual master cylinder is
further out from the frame) before installing this part, CLEAN the
area where it mounts on the brake pedal, both sides! Using the
supplied washer, lock washer and grade 8 lock nut, install this
bolt/pin to the same hole which you removed the original pin from, and
torque to 45 ft lbs.
Although
we strive to create a product that will “bolt in” you may need to
modify your linkage. If you do please let me know, as I will try to
keep track of any “trends” which may tend to occur.
Now
install the master cylinder of your choice, using the provided
hardware. All the mounting holes are slotted, both on the frame side
and the master cylinder side to allow for any inconsistencies in both
the Studebaker frame and various master cylinders. Once you have your
master cylinder mounted, adjust the linkage the same as indicate in the
Studebaker shop manual.
Now on to the brake lines! You MUST have
available a double flaring tool, if not, you might be able to bend,
shape, and or loop a stock length steel line from your local auto parts
store to fit. However, I suggest buying or renting a double flaring
tool to install the brake lines. You will be much happier with the
final installation if you do.
When
you purchase your master cylinder, be sure to get the correct fittings
that allow a 3/16” brake line to fit into the master cylinder! Most
parts stores have a good selection of these!
Remember
that the large reservoir is for the front brakes and the small one for
the rear brakes! Plumb your brakes correctly! These fittings are ½ -20
inverted flare to 3/16 flare.
TURNER BRAKE
7293 Oakbay Drive
Noblesville, Indiana 46062
(317) 877-0453
WWW.TURNERBRAKE.COM
3
We at TURNER BRAKE recommend that you install the included residual check valves (RCV) a 10# RCV (RED) in the rear line and a 2# RCV (BLUE)
in the front line, for disc brakes. This over comes the return springs
and will keep brake fluid in the wheel cylinders/calipers. Both vales
should be as close to the master cylinder as possible. We suggest on
the inside of the frame rail to “hide” them.
It IS
also be necessary to install the supplied adjustable proportioning
valve in this system, using the supplied brass fittings to adapt the
brake lines to the proportioning valve!
Install the proportioning valve in the rear line BEHIND the rear residual 10 pound
(RED) After installation; open the vale all the way! (Counter clockwise)
After completing the installation, and properly bleeding the brakes, TEST DRIVE the vehicle!
And determine if the rear wheels are locking up before the front brakes. If they are, then turn
The proportioning valve control knob in (clockwise) 1 turn and TEST DRIVE the vehicle
Again! And AGAIN determine if the rear wheels are locking up first. Have a second person
Help you if needed!
This
will be MORE noticeable on a hard braking! Keep working with the
adjustment until you feel the rear brakes are not locking up. Once you
have the knob set, lock it in with the setscrew
Once you have installed your brake lines, bleed the brakes and CHECK FOR LEAKS!
After bleeding your brakes, test-drive your vehicle, and slowly work up to higher speeds to check how your brakes are working!
Now
drill a 1” hole through the floor above the rear reservoir of the
master cylinder. This will make it much easier to fill the master
cylinder. Use the provided 1” body plug to seal the hole when done, this
plug just pushes into place, do not glue it in! As when you need to
fill the master cylinder again, you will have access.
IF YOU ARE INSTALLING THIS KIT ON A STICK SHIFT VEHICLE PLEASE READ!
YOU WILL NEED TO PROVIDE A PLACE FOR THE CLUTCH RETURN SPRING TO ATTACH; WE SUGGEST USING A WELDED EYE BOLT, (AVAILABLE FROM HARDWARE STORES) AND ATTACHING IT TO THE BODY CROSSMEMBER JUST BEHIND THE MASTER CYLINDER.
I
ask that you fill out the last page and return it to me so that I can
keep track of which master cylinders are used and any
problems/suggestions that you may have. Please fill out all the
information about the master cylinder that you used, if you installed a
residual check valve, proportioning valve and anything that you
changed or had to modify to install our product.
Rev 7/2013
4
WARRANTY
TURNER BRAKE
7293 OAKBAY DRIVE
NOBLESVILLE, INDIANA. 46062
www.turnerbrake.com
E-mail diskbrake1@comcast.net
(317) 877-0453
This Master Cylinder kit utilizes, a stock American made, modern brake parts from various automobile manufactures.
This
kit is designed to adapt these modern parts to the stock Studebaker
frame, without any permanent modifications to the frame. The finest
quality parts have been assembled for this kit. All of the bolts lock
washers, and lock nuts are of grade 8 aircraft quality, NOTHING LESS WILL DO!
The
stock Studebaker Master Cylinder is held on by 2 3/8 x 5 3/4 grade 5
bolts with lock washers. This kit utilizes 2, 3/8 x 3 1/4 grade 8
bolts, with lock washers and lock nuts. BE SURE TO USE RED LOCTITE ALONG WITH THE LOCK WASHERS AND LOCK NUTS!!
Also included in this kit are the proper torque specifications for each set of bolts, THESE MUST ALSO BE USED!! A competent professional mechanic should install this kit. THE PURCHASER IS RESPONSIBLE FOR PROPER INSTALLATION OF THIS PRODUCT.
LIMITED WARRANTY
TURNER BRAKE, and
it's affiliates, warrants to the original purchaser that it's product
shall be free from defects in materials and workmanship for a period of
ninety (90) days from the date of original purchase. All claims shall
be made by returning the product; FREIGHT PRE-PAID, with proof of purchase to TURNER BRAKE.
If found to be defective in material or workmanship upon inspection, TURNER BRAKE will
repair or replace the defective product. In no event shall this
warranty exceed the original purchase price of this product.
This warranty shall not apply to products subjected to accident, negligence, alteration, abuse, misuse, racing purposes, improper installation, or unsuited uses. Furthermore, TURNER BRAKE shall
not be liable for any consequential, special or contingent damages or
injury arising directly or indirectly from any defect in its goods or
from use of goods, defective or not.
TURNER BRAKE'S only obligation will be to repair or replace material
defects proven to be defective; neither seller nor manufacturer will
be liable for any loss, injury, or consequential damages, arising from
use or inability to use this product.
IT
IS EXPRESSLY UNDERSTOOD AND AGREED THAT THIS WARRANTY SHALL BE IN LIEU
OF ALL WARRANTIES OF FITNESS AND IN LIEU OF THE WARRANTY OF
MERCHANTABILITY AND THERE ARE NO OTHER WARRANTIES EXPRESSED OR IMPLIED
5
TURNER BRAKE
TROUBLE SHOOTING PAGE
LOW PEDAL:
Check
and adjust the pedal to master cylinder rod, (free travel) be sure
that there is minimal travel before the piston in the master cylinder
begins to move.
Be sure you installed the residual check valves!
BRAKES LOCK UP:
Check free travel, loosen locknut, and back linkage adjustment off, Try a ¼ turn at a time.
DOESN’T STOP WELL:
Be sure you have the brake lines hooked up to the proper reservoir, large reservoir to the front, smaller to the rear.
SPONGY PEDAL:
Be sure the brakes are bled properly, start at the right rear, and then left rear, right front, then left front.
BRAKE FLUID LEAKS:
Check all double flares, and connections, re double flare if needed! ALL FLARES MUST BE DOUBLED FLARED!
If you are still experiencing difficulties,
Please contact us as soon as possible!
6
TURNER BRAKE
BENCH BLEEDING OF A
REPLACEMENT MASTER CYLINDER
7
TURNER BRAKE
1953 – 1964 MASTER CYLINDER PART NUMBER LISTING
PART # |
DESCRIPTION |
MANUFACTURER |
BORE SIZE |
11373 |
1964 - 1976 JEEP |
ADVANCE AUTO PARTS |
1" |
36237 |
" |
NAPA |
1" |
NM1373 |
" |
AUTOZONE |
1" |
MC36237 |
" |
Raybestes |
1" |
F56193 |
" |
Wagner |
1" |
Although there are many brands of master cylinders on
The market, we HIGHLY recommend the use of a NEW master
cylinder and not a rebuilt one. This is with your own personal safety
in mind! Price should NOT be a consideration, when it may affect the
well being of you and your loved ones!
The preceding page is the PROPER way to bench bleed a new master cylinder. (Courtesy of NAPA auto parts)
We
now offer a complete master cylinder kit, (less steel brake lines)
which includes a new master cylinder, with proper fittings.
Also,
now is a good time to replace your brake light switch, and check your
brake hose’s! Raybestes recommends that rubber brake hose’s be replaced
every 3 to 4 years. Again, this is with YOUR safety in mind.
8
TURNER BRAKE REGISTRATION
7293 OAKBAY DRIVE
NOBLESVILLE, INDIANA 46062
WWW.TURNERBRAKE.COM
E-mail diskbrake1@comcast.net
(317) 877-0453
TO HELP US IN OUR STRIVE FOR IMPROVEMENT PLEASE TAKE A FEW
MINUTES OF YOUR TIME TO FILL OUT THE FOLLOWING.
NAME OF PURCHASER__________________________________________________
ADDRESS______________________________________________________________
CITY______________________________STATE_____________ZIP CODE__________
PHONE NUMBER ____________________________
HOW DID YOU HEAR OF THIS KIT? _________________________________________
WHERE DID YOU PURCHASE THIS KIT? _____________________________________
WHO INSTALLED THIS KIT? ________________________________________________
DID WHOEVER INSTALL THIS KIT HAVE ANY PROBLEMS? _____________________
IF SO, PLEASE LET US KNOW WHAT PROBLEMS YOU HAD. ___________________
_________________________________________________________________________
_________________________________________________________________________
MAKE OF VEHICLE____________________MODEL________________YEAR_________
SERIAL NUMBER______________________MILEAGE____________________________
WOULD YOU RECOMMEND THIS PRODUCT TO A FRIEND? ______________________
IF NO, WHY NOT? _________________________________________________________
WHICH MASTER CYLINDER DID YOU USE? ___________________________________
DID YOU USE A RESIDUAL CHECK VALVE IN THE FRONT? _______REAR? _________
WHAT ARE THE PART #S OF THE BRASS FITTINGS YOU USED? _________________
DID YOU USE A PROPORTIONING VALVE? __________WHICH ONE? ______________
DO YOU HAVE A TURNER BRAKE FRONT DISC BRAKE KIT INSTALLED? ___________
9
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