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Thread: Excellent Info RE: E-10 fuel & additive

  1. #1
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    Excellent Info RE: E-10 fuel & additive

    I decided to place this in the Studebaker section because, quite frankly, there is no issue about which we have more Turning Wheels Co-Operator correspondence than problems with contemporary gasoline, especially the E-10 that seems to be just about all that's available. (Many forum members do not access Stove-Huggers on a regular basis -if at all- and would miss this if it was posted there.)

    From The Historic Vehicle Association's current monthly e-mail newsletter:

    https://www.historicvehicle.org/Lates...n-on-a-mission

    Note that writer Ed Syrocki recommends the following Schaeffer Oil gasoline additive. I've long known about Schaeffer Oil (good products; much experience), but had not heard of this specific additive. I intend to buy and try some; sounds like a good idea.

    https://www.schaefferoil.com/soy-gasoline-additive.html

    'No need for us to get off on our usual "discussion" of ethanol-enhanced gasoline; it just isn't as good for our older, non-FI engines as was the gasoline available when they were new.

    Further, I've had hours-long discussions with my freind of many decades, Ron Hewitt, who owns and operates Daytona Parts Company in New Smyrna Beach FL. Ron and his son have been rebuilding collector-car carburetors and supplying parts for same for at least 20-odd years now. The stories he tells of late about carburetors damaged by E-10 are both enlightening and frightening. Ron echos what Mr. Syrocki reports in the linked article from The Historic Vehicle Association, and I dare say they know more about this than any one here on the forum...probably most than all of us combined, actually! <GGG>.

    Forewarned is forearmed and all that. BP
    Last edited by BobPalma; 08-30-2011 at 04:20 PM.

  2. #2
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    Thanks for the data, Bob.
    1957 Studebaker Champion 2 door. Staten Island, New York.
    The car that started the madness: My father's 1952 Champion 4 door.

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    Senior Member Bob Andrews's Avatar
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    So then, is this how to best store my Studebakers for 6 months- full gas tank with this additive? Or something else for storage?
    Proprietor- IoMT (Island of Misfit Toys)
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    Sounds like a bottle of #131 Soy Ultra Additive and a bottle of Sta-Bil would fix you right up.
    Be sure to drink lots of water.
    StudeRich

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    $184.03 a case. Why not buy a bottle of soy bean oil at the grocery store and pour some in?
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    $184 a case for 24 bottles of the stuff is roughly $7.65 per bottle.

    That's cheaper than the $9.95 per bottle vendors charge for ZDDPlus Oil Additive. BP

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    I have never heard of E-10 I heard of E-85. is it the same? or called 10 because it is in a different part of the state?

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    Quote Originally Posted by mookandairin View Post
    I have never heard of E-10 I heard of E-85. is it the same? or called 10 because it is in a different part of the state?
    NO NO NO NO! E-10 is only 10% enthanol and will generally run in our cars and others designed for "regular" gasoline.

    E-85 is 85% ethanol and will NOT operate in our cars. In fact, it will damage them in short order.

    E-85 is only for vehicles identified as being Flex-Fuel. BP

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    is it cheaper to run 10?

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    Well if you can actually FIND a Station with E-85, just compare the price to the Regular Unleaded with 10%.

    I guesss each State is different, we do not have E-85 in the west, (the old E-85 cars that are still on the road not scrapped yet) run on Regular 10% since they are Flex-Fuel.
    StudeRich

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    Anytime a magic additive comes along, I ask myself, "If it is that simple, proven and available, why haven't the major gasoline/oil companies heard about it and already put it the fuel or the oil?"

    jack vines
    PackardV8

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    Senior Member JBOYLE's Avatar
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    Sta-Bil makes an Ethanol Treatment
    On their webite they say its...
    • "Perfect for use in cars, trucks and small engines!
    • Prevents corrosion
    • Helps remove water from Fuel
    • Cleans fuel injectors, carburetors and intake valves for better, overall performance
    • Recommended for use at every fill up"
    When they first started advertising this stuff, I emailed the company and asked if it would protect existing systems from the bad effects of ethanol.

    Their answer was...No. Their PR woman said nothing could do that.
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    Quote Originally Posted by PackardV8 View Post
    Anytime a magic additive comes along, I ask myself, "If it is that simple, proven and available, why haven't the major gasoline/oil companies heard about it and already put it the fuel or the oil?"

    jack vines
    Because oil companies couldn't care less about non fuel injected 50 year old cars

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    Senior Member 57 Silver Hawk's Avatar
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    Bob, Thank you for info.. I just signed up the petition on No to E-15 fuel!

    Steven

    1957 Silver Hawk
    1967 Corvair coupe
    1969 Corvair coupe

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    Because oil companies couldn't care less about non fuel injected 50 year old cars
    You could be correct. But then again, the oil companies spend millions on additive packages and advertising them. Seems if it were as simple as a bottle of whizbang juice, some company would step up and do it and get a lot of good publicity.

    Your snake oil, your money, your decision.

    jack vines
    PackardV8

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    Thanks Bob, but the nearest place to buy this stuff is 130 miles away. Is there any other stuff that will do this? I just found that there is a little bitty garage about six miles from me that sells "High Test" with no ethanol (Regular is E10). This is perfect for the R1 engine in my Champ. Of course when I go very out of town I am out of luck.
    Joe Roberts
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    Senior Member Corvanti's Avatar
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    from a post a few months ago:

    Where to find 100% Pure Gasoline with no ethanol
    https://pure-gas.org/index.jsp
    '40 Champion DeLuxe. sold 10/11

    '63 Avanti R-1384. sold 12/10.[/IMG][/URL][/IMG]

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    Don't blame the oil companies for the ethanol in gasoline .... its there because of EPA regulations (and very active lobbying efforts by Archer Daniels Midland) that forced ethanol on refineries. Prior to ethanol MTBE (Methyl tert-butyl ether) was used to raise octane and as an oxygenate to improve gasoline combustion to reduce air emissions. The problem with MTBE is that is highly miscible with both water and gasoline and as such was showing up in ground water when tested, so the EPA banned MTBE.

    Guess who caused the refineries to use MTBE in gasoline in the first place, you got it the EPA. The EPA has caused several different formulations for gasoline to be required for different states, climates, seasons and altitudes because it theoretically reduce volatile emissions by a few parts per million. This has caused the oil industry to spend 100's of billions in capital to custom blend all these boutique gasoline formulas to meet the regulations.

    And we all know who ultimately pays for it .... all of us at the gasoline pump !!!
    John


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    Quote Originally Posted by PackardV8 View Post
    You could be correct. But then again, the oil companies spend millions on additive packages and advertising them. Seems if it were as simple as a bottle of whizbang juice, some company would step up and do it and get a lot of good publicity.

    Your snake oil, your money, your decision.

    jack vines
    I will also play the sceptic part here. Let me ask here on the Forum: How many of you have had the problems that were written about in the article by Ed Syrocki?

    I do find the topic interesting and I do want to keep the old cars around as long as possible. Earlier this season I did have problems with the Silver Hawk. Some were fuel related (Carb rebuild), some were not (Distributor rebuild). I have changed to a higher grade fuel this year before reading this article. I do believe that it may still be up to 10% ethanol. As for the additives I currently use: Lead additive in the fuel every 2 or 3 tanks, and ZZDP in the oil, because it came highly recommended by someone who had an engine go boom.

    What are your experiences with these types of additives and/or the Soy products, over the long haul? Anyone not using a darn thing, with no problems at all? Could it really be a money grab for another additive company.
    Matthew es

  20. #20
    Senior Member Corvanti's Avatar
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    i use zddp in the oil (30w non-detergent), the only "additive" i use.

    i also installed a "see-through" fuel filter in an unseen area - i'd worry more about old dirty/rusty fuel tanks being a problem...

    and if i didn't drive my car at least every 3 to 5 days year round, i'd throw some sta-bil in the tank.

    with that said, i do think ethanol is a problem for our older cars, and i try to fill up with pure gas when i'm on the other side of town where it can be purchased.

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    I have used E-10 a couple of times in my 1951 Commander. Within a month of using it both times, my electric fuel pump died, as the bellows in it was not compatible. I have switched to an in-line fuel pump that is compatible (says so on the box). I have also gone to a complete stainless steel fuel line and two fuel filters. I replaced all the rubber hose in the fuel system with fuel injection hose. I should be able to use E-10 now, but I will continue to buy the straight stuff as long as it is available. I still worry about the gaskets in my WCFB, which hasn't been rebuilt yet. I use Rotella-T CI-4 15W-40 oil, as I got a real good price on gallons of it last year.

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    Fortunately I have a place 10 miles from me that sells non-ethanol premium.
    Claude Chmielewski
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    Maybe that's why my dailey driver 259 Lark runs so................

    Yes...it runs just fine on a dose of out of the pump, California fuel. I buy Union 76 (E-10) most of the time. Funny though...like I said, it runs just fine thru an Edelbrock carburetor and stock mechanical pump.
    And my 54 Conestoga...same there, OEM carburetor...even an electric fuel pump, runs just fine (except the wimpy power output..!).

    Every so often, I'll put a bottle of Lucas Fuel Injector Cleaner in to help keep things clean (yes, I know it works).

    The alcohol won't hurt things untill it gets a few more percentage points higher.
    The sky isn't falling just yet...!
    Or am I doing something wrong..?

    Mike

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    FWIW, my area has had 10% ethanol for probably 15-20 years. My '55 E12 had the original fuel tank, lines, pump and carburetor. Other than a 5-10% drop in fuel mileage, there were no noticed problems from then to now.

    jack vines
    PackardV8

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    I belong to a British car club with about 80 members who own 140 cars, all of them built before 1980, and many built before 1960. Some of these cars are not driven much, but some are still driven every day, including a 1977 MGB with 340,000 miles (one engine rebuild so far). There might be one or two exceptions, but as far as I know, they are all running on E10, except for one Tiger which is on AvGas due to a 12:1 compression ratio. There have been none of the dire problems so often talked about due to E10. I'd also note that, AFAIK, nearly all are running modern motor oils without ZDDP or any other additives in the oil. I run my '59 Sprite on E10 and regular motor oil, as I did with an MGB and a Lotus Elan, all without problems.

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    Senior Member Bob Andrews's Avatar
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