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Thread: MOOG CC655 coil springs

  1. #1
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    MOOG CC655 coil springs

    I have read many comments concerning these springs. Some even concerned about their appearance and maybe they would not fit a Studebaker. I am in the process of installing the springs and I have ran into a problem. First, I have attached photos of the springs and a Studebaker rubber cap from SI on one end of each (top and bottom). I see no problem with the fit.

    My problem is in getting the old springs off of my 57 silver hawk. The shocks had carriage bolts holding them on but they were
    so rusty I had to cut them off. Now for the springs, they have eight 7/16 hex head bolts and nuts holding them on. I cannot get them to budge. Only one turns a little and it is the entire bolt, not just the nut. I cannot get a wrench on top of the bolt due to how it is positioned. I have the spring compressed with a spring compressor. There is no way I can cut them off.

    I am going to have to take it in to a front end shop and let them put a torch or whatever they need to get them off. They will then go ahead and stick the springs in for me. I hate to pay the money but I do not have the tools to do the job. I have wasted two days fighting the problem.

    Now for my question. I need to bring in whatever bolts I need as the shop does not have any new bolts. After thinking about it I believe when manufactured, they probably used carriage bolts to hold the springs in as this is what was used on the shocks and it is to difficult to get to the top of the hex head bolt with a wrench. Can anyone confirm what type of bolt and what size was used to bolt that lower a-arm up to the frame cross member (There are four on each side)? Thanks
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    Last edited by aftontrix; 10-09-2011 at 08:27 PM.

  2. #2
    President Member (S)'s Avatar
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    The car should be way up in the air and properly supported. It helps if the engine is in. If you safety chain or wire the spring to something, then position a jack under the outer lower control arm and loosen the lower control arm, it will swing out of the way. Once the spring pops out, you can get to the upper bolts...... Those springs are stout, use care and be sure they are not too loaded when the last few bolts come out. Also be sure to hang onto the jack, as the spring pressure will easily roll it.

    My experience with spring compressors is that you can only compress the spring part way or it gets in your way. Be sure it is set up properly. I find some only work if the fender is off, some don't/won't fit the car at all.......

    The bolts you are after are 5/8 with 11/16 nuts There are 4 of these bolts and the whole thing will swing out of the way.......

    These bolts are always 'loose' and they should get replaced with shouldered, grade 8 shouldered types with nyloc nuts. NEVER re-use the originals, or the washers.

    The shop manual will save you alot of time.
    Last edited by (S); 10-09-2011 at 05:51 PM.

  3. #3
    Silver Hawk Member JoeHall's Avatar
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    Based on your comments and questions, I would highly recommend you stop where you are and get a Shop Manual. Replacing springs is dangerous if you are not familiar with the correct proceedures. If you are trying to remove the springs by unfastening the inner, lower 'A' arm bolts you could be in danger. Once again, I highly recommend a Shop Manual. Once you read up on the procedures you can then decide if it is something you want to tackle or take to a shop.

  4. #4
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    (S),
    Thanks. I have the shop manual but it does not describe the bolts used. My problem is getting the bolts out of the lower control arm so I can drop it and swing it out of the way. My bolts are not "loose" as you describe. I plan to replace them. That is why I want to find out what type and size they should be. You are referring to "shouldered" bolts. I guess you mean Carriage bolts. Is that correct? I do not understand the 5/8 with 11/16 nuts. That does not sound like a carriage bolt. What is currently on the auto is 1 3/4 long bolts with a hex head on top that I can't get a wrench on, and a 5/8 nyloc nut on the bottom. These are the ones I can't get off.

  5. #5
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    Joehall,
    I have the shop manual and I have read it. I have compressed the spring with a coil spring compressor and removed the tension from the lower a-arm (the top of the spring is not touching now). My only problem is frozen bolts and for this reason, I will have to take it to a front end shop. My problem is, they want me to bring replacement bolts for the inner lower A-arm bolts when I bring the vehicle in. I need to find out what type and size these bolts are on a 57 silver hawk. I just do not think the ones on there now are correct (5/8 hex head nut). Anyone know what they should be? Thanks
    Last edited by aftontrix; 10-09-2011 at 08:29 PM.

  6. #6
    Silver Hawk Member JoeHall's Avatar
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    I have spent about 12 hours refurbishing the front suspension on a 62GT this weekend (Moog springs, shocks, upper & lower 'A' arm bushings etc). The bolts you are referring to are in fact 5/8" head, with 11/16" nuts. They are grade 8, fine thread, and fit snugly in the crossmember holes. The 5/8" heads are easier to get at if you first clean all the crud from around them. I used a 5/8" box end and to hold them in place while removing the nuts from below.

    MOST IMPORTANT: for the job you are doing, it is not necessary to even touch those bolts! Just loosen the 3/4" capscrews a few turns, then force the lower arm to pivot down enough to drop the springs. Trust me, it will do so. Also, make sure the car is sitting up high enough for the arms to swing down far enough to release the springs.

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    Check your private message.

    Quote Originally Posted by aftontrix View Post
    I have read many comments concerning these springs. Some even concerned about their appearance and maybe they would not fit a Studebaker. I am in the process of installing the springs and I have ran into a problem. First, I have attached photos of the springs and a Studebaker rubber cap from SI on one end of each (top and bottom). I see no problem with the fit.

    My problem is in getting the old springs off of my 57 silver hawk. The shocks had carriage bolts holding them on but they were
    so rusty I had to cut them off. Now for the springs, they have eight 7/16 hex head bolts and nuts holding them on. I cannot get them to budge. Only one turns a little and it is the entire bolt, not just the nut. I cannot get a wrench on top of the bolt due to how it is positioned. I have the spring compressed with a spring compressor. There is no way I can cut them off.

    I am going to have to take it in to a front end shop and let them put a torch or whatever they need to get them off. They will then go ahead and stick the springs in for me. I hate to pay the money but I do not have the tools to do the job. I have wasted two days fighting the problem.

    Now for my question. I need to bring in whatever bolts I need as the shop does not have any new bolts. After thinking about it I believe when manufactured, they probably used carriage bolts to hold the springs in as this is what was used on the shocks and it is to difficult to get to the top of the hex head bolt with a wrench. Can anyone confirm what type of bolt and what size was used to bolt that lower a-arm up to the frame cross member (There are four on each side)? Thanks

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