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Thread: Eliminate Front Coil Spring Spacers?

  1. #1
    Silver Hawk Member
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    Eliminate Front Coil Spring Spacers?

    My 74 Avanti has a rather thick Aluminum spacer under the coil spring and a thin steel spacer on top of the spring.

    I have a set of MOOG CC-655 coil springs that I will install when I've reconditioned/rebuilt the suspension. I would like to eliminate the Aluminum spacer as I assume that will set the car a bit lower and I currently have no plans to cut them further.

    The control arms/A-arms are solid with little to no rust pitting in the seats for the coil springs so my plan is to leave the spacers out.

    I'm curious about the experience of the forum members in doing this. Did you just leave 'em out or add a pad of some type (thin steel/urethane) to the interface area. Or as an addition, What would you recommend?

    Thanks, Bob
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  2. #2
    Silver Hawk Member JoeHall's Avatar
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    Bob, my experience is that spacers raise the ride height, on about a 1.5 ratio. In other words, a half inch spacer raises the car about 3/4". The MOOGs sit my cars about where they'd sit with a set of 526125 springs. (Factory HD springs for 56Js, that work well in many other V8 Hawks.)
    You may have to install them with or w/o the spacers, then decide what you need to do from there. Of course, any Stude front end will settle down 1/2 to 3/4 inch after a few hundred miles with new springs.

  3. #3
    Golden Hawk Member StudeRich's Avatar
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    Usually H.D. Stude. springs being shorter required the thick spacer to get the Car LEVEL, this was especially true on Air Cond. Cars they did not use the Rubber Spring pads.

    All of the Standard Spring Cars had Rubber Pads under the spring, half circle on approx. '63-'66 and full circle UPPER AND LOWER on '50 to approx. '62.

    So I see no reason why you could not do whatever you like with it, if it were mine I would probably try a 526249 Rubber pad at least on the bottom.
    StudeRich
    Second Generation Stude Driver,
    Proud '54 Starliner Owner




  4. #4
    Silver Hawk Member JoeHall's Avatar
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    I would recommend rubber pads, top and bottom, no matter what you decide about spacers. I have had Studes squeak without the rubber pads. If you don't have pads available, you can always fab some, i.e. from a thin rubbered garden hose, held in place by tie-ties till installed.

  5. #5
    Golden Hawk Member
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    How thick is "rather thick"?
    I would try without the spacers and see how the Avanti sits and if there is any interferance.
    Gary L.
    Wappinger, NY

    SDC member since 1968
    Studebaker enthusiast much longer

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by studegary View Post
    How thick is "rather thick"?
    I would try without the spacers and see how the Avanti sits and if there is any interferance.
    Thanks Joe, Rich and Gary. You all have provided the information, I believe, I'm looking for.

    The spacer is about a fat 1/2" so not that thick but Joe submits that an approx. 3/4" height reduction is possible so I plan to leave them out. The reason I need the drop is the original SBC was a touch high and the newer 383 SBC will have an aluminum intake, water pump and radiator further reducing the weight and probably raising the front some more.

    The mention about squeaking was significant so I looked into Energy Suspension urethane isolators, about $15/pair. They have one that will fit at 5/16" thickness and will probably compress some more so I'll look into them or Rich's suggestion on the 526249 rubber pads.

    The Avanti sat on the high side of what I'd want originally so this will help. I'll cut a bit out of a coil if I need to but I'd rather avoid doing that.

    Thanks again all, Bob
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  7. #7
    The second thing I did to my Lark wagon after I bought it...remove the 1" air conditioning spacers. But that wasn't enough, I ended up cutting a full coil also.

    As for the rubber...in all my cars...including this Lark (a Stude !), I've never had audable "spring" squeeking noises from my cars. OTHER squeeks...yea !!! As long as the spring is seated correctly, it should not move in either pocket (upper or lower).
    Your choise, but...remember, the thickness you use will raise the car some amount.

    Mike

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Van Veghten View Post
    The second thing I did to my Lark wagon after I bought it...remove the 1" air conditioning spacers. But that wasn't enough, I ended up cutting a full coil also.

    As for the rubber...in all my cars...including this Lark (a Stude !), I've never had audable "spring" squeeking noises from my cars. OTHER squeeks...yea !!! As long as the spring is seated correctly, it should not move in either pocket (upper or lower).
    Your choise, but...remember, the thickness you use will raise the car some amount.

    Mike
    Thanks Mike

    The good news is with a fresh install it shouldn't be hard to add the rubber later as I'd like to start with it as low as I can without cutting coils. Might be a little hard to hear the squeaks over the Mufflers!!?? I plan to install anyway.

    Bob
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  9. #9
    Bob -

    Mufflers....you're gonna use mufflers....? Oh the humanity...mufflers...!

    Yea...me too, just bought a set of the long Dynomax Turbo mufflers for my (soon to be..daily driver) Conestoga.

    Mike

  10. #10
    have installed several NOS coils up front with no squeaks ever....I just installed the CC655's in my 62' wagon......Murphy suggests this car will squeak....I did install fresh rubber bushings...so that may help in noise.....but as a driver, I expect squeaks and even with the GM coils I expect the car to lean on exit ramps doing 30 mph +...just as any 1960's car would...should....GL

  11. #11
    Silver Hawk Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Van Veghten View Post
    Bob -

    Mufflers....you're gonna use mufflers....? Oh the humanity...mufflers...!

    Yea...me too, just bought a set of the long Dynomax Turbo mufflers for my (soon to be..daily driver) Conestoga.

    Mike
    The local constabulary are pretty forgiving about exhaust sound level on custom type vehicles in my little corner of the world but don't like to be pressed to the limit so I used these initially on the 83.



    Judy complained about sound level so I converted to Magnaflow SS glasspacks but on the 74 I'm going back to the ones shown in an earlier post on the 83.

    Yesterday the local muffler shop bent the 2 1/2" head pipes to fit the 2 1/2" ram horns on the 383 in the 74 as I'm slowly getting closer to setting it in to engine compartment.


    Bob
    , ,

  12. #12
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    Anyone ever added resonators to a Hawk '63 dual system? I've had complaints about the noise level w/ Flowmaster 40's. Am not yet ready to move, so may need to pacify the neighbors w/ some sort of modification/noise reduction.
    Paul TK

  13. #13
    Golden Hawk Member StudeRich's Avatar
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    Paul, have you got too much money invested in those too short Flowmasters to just install Longer ones.
    StudeRich
    Second Generation Stude Driver,
    Proud '54 Starliner Owner




  14. #14
    Silver Hawk Member JoeHall's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paul Keller View Post
    Anyone ever added resonators to a Hawk '63 dual system? I've had complaints about the noise level w/ Flowmaster 40's. Am not yet ready to move, so may need to pacify the neighbors w/ some sort of modification/noise reduction.
    Paul TK
    When I first got the 63GT last summer, it had resonators that looked like "boom cans". One of the first things I did was use a saws-all to remove them, and the over sized tailpipes. Then, at the Payless Muffler shop they removed the rest of the exhaust abomination and tossed it into the scrap metal pile, before installing an OEM looking and sounding setup. I always ask for quiet mufflers, but of course that's personal pref.

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