Subject:  AC conversion for 63 hawk
Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2001 

///////I haven't decided on freeze-12 or 134 yet.  ////////


Use R12.  Spend the bux and do it right!

The R134A will not cool as well and will leak thru the walls of the
hoses on the car.  The molecular structure of R134A is much smaller
than R12 and can pass relatively easily.

Mom's car, a few years ago, needed a bit of AC work.  The compressor
seals had shot craps and lost its charge.  I took it to a reputible
shop here in town and asked about converting to R134A.  The answer
back was that the compressor was not suited for it, I would have to
replace all the hoses with barrier type to make it hold the charge and
the entire system would have to be flushed to remove all the old oils
as the old oil was not compatible with R134A also.  Much reading I
have done supports ALL these statements.  The cost to fix it correctly
and keep using R12 was less than half the cost of correctly converting
it to R134A.

There is more than enough R12 around for generations to come and I
will stick with it as long as it is financially possible.

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The hose issue is greatly exagerated.  We have  done dozens of
conversions to R134a and can only remember one time when a hose was bad.

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What I have been told is that the non-barrier hoses absorb oil over time
(from the compressor) and that "seals" up the pores in the hose so 134A
can be used.  Now if you just installed a NOS hose or the system has
been open and the hoses have had a chance to dry out then you might need
to replace them.
===========

To change one of our Studebakers to 134A The main thing to change is the old
iron condenser to a new type muilti pass. Transfers heat much better. Change
the oil in compressor. Yes Yorks work great with 134A, 90% of the new Trucks
have York compressor on them. On a change over I use Ester refrigerant oil.
Works with R12 or 134A Ebon...
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