EDIT for picture location, and to add critical Q & A thread link.
The rebuild process ended up happening on the above thread mostly, I
will make an effort to transfer the info eventually, but for now the
above link can be used - 12/31/08
Back to the original thread :
OK, those following these threads know that the pump is now rebuilt,
the ram is off the car and clean, but the control valve has not been
cooperating in the least. After I got the starter off, I finally was
able to see the core plug thats been leaking for the last decade. It
came out fairly easy with a screw driver and after a hole was made, a
Studebaker jack/lug nut tire iron. Not a lot of room to get the new
one back in, so I figured once the control valve/pitman arm was out of
the way, things would open up. Problem is, I have a clearance issue.
I can not get either my 3/4 breaker bar, nor my 3/4 ratchet onto that
pitman arm bolt - the engine block is in the way. The socket needed
is a 1-1/4, which requires a 3/4 drive. Jacking up the engine doesnt
sound realistic, so I was considering a 1-1/4 box end wrench. I dont
remember having this problem with my Hawk, but the engine IS also in a
different location in relation to the steering box, so that might play
an important role. I ended up getting a 1/2 inch drive 1-1/4 socket
from Sears (my set only went up to 1-1/8). As was mentioned by Mike
Mudd, it will fit beween the engine and the nut. With a bar on the 1/2
drive, and a pipe against the tierods to stop the steering system from
flexing, I was able to break the nut loose. The small puller that I
got (listed as a tie rod/import pitman arm) is smaller than that one
recommended by Mike, it doesnt fit over that thick and fat Studebaker
pitman arm. Autozone had the larger one and for 15 bucks I brought it
home. It was recommended to use a shorter 5/8-18 bolt in the puller
but I decided to see if I could fit it up in there. Due to removing
that leaking core plug, I had extra room you wouldnt normally have. I
cranked down on the bolt and sprayed both sides of the spline with PB
Blaster - it sat with tension on it for a couple days - no change :
I figured I just wasnt getting enough leverage with the open end of
the wrench, so I got a grade 8 bolt in the town I work, and modified
it to center on the hole in the shaft. Its a 1-3/4 long bolt & I took
the last 1/2 of thread off, and then ground a point on it, with a bit
of a shoulder, like the bolt included with the puller. The point is
an important addition, it centers the bolt on the shaft and keeps it
from "walking" off the shaft when its turned. If it walks, the puller
can break from side load, or the threads on the shaft could be damaged.
I greased up the threads and put it on the pitman arm. I used a 15/16
open end wrench, with 3/4 box end wrench slipped onto the open end to
get more leverage. I tighted it down, and used a piece of steel to
hit the side of the pitman arm with a sledge hammer.
Success! A couple hits, and tightened the puller some more and it got
loose and came off. Finally!!
Removed the cotter pin and nut from the other end of the control valve
on the bell crank, and put my pickle fork tie rod separator in there,
a couple hits from the sledge and it came loose.